Müller-Thurgau's grandparents uncovered

Müller-Thurgau, the most widely planted deliberate vine crossing in the world, developed in 1882, has for long had a rather shady past, though this did not seem to affect its rampant popularity in many parts of the wine world in the mid to late 20th century. (See the Müller-Thurgau entry in the Oxford Companion for more details.)

It wasn't until the end of the 20th century that its real parents became known. One parent, Riesling, has never been in doubt, but there was much speculation about the other, said by its breeder Dr Hermann Müller to be Silvaner. After various...