See also part 1 – crus de foudre and part 2 – a manifesto for Muscadet.
Here are a selection of tasting notes, taken on my recent visit to the region, which encapsulate the spirit of Muscadet. They cover various soil types, prices and styles – but manage to retain an essence of origin that defines them as Muscadet.
They are presented in order of producer (sur)name.
White
Apple and lemon sherbet fruit, plus a truly palpable salty flavour. Light spritz still, despite the bottle age. Smooth and light, but complete and lengthy. Has the vividness of flavour that befits a cru Muscadet. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2011
–
2016
White
Goulaine is currently a lieu-dit, but lined up to be a cru. 18 months on lees – which reduces petillance, but increases complexity, allegedly. Delicious salted crackers, nutty character, apple and grapefruit. Evolving nicely – still has primary fruit, but is showing great balance, fragrance, and development. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2012
–
2018
White
Sur lie, but not labelled as such. Crab apple, attractive steeliness and mineral character. Less obviously salty than some, but has that definite Muscadet spritz. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2013
–
2016
White
Tank sample. Apple and fresh yeasty bread on the nose; very young – but really delivers impressive fruit on the palate. Crisp, briny, flinty character. Great stuff – sharp but not bitter. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2013
–
2017
White
From Goulaine, a cru communal-in-waiting. Impressive saline concentration and lovely applemint character. Floral, rich, creamy. Absolutely spot on – has a delicious development and plenty of youthful fruit too. Excellent. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2008
–
2015
White
18 months on lees. Bready, yeasty, apple. Lots of concentration – definite ageing potential. Glassy texture. Hazelnut finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2013
–
2020
White
Fresh, lively, malty character. Pure apple fruit with a lovely saltiness on the finish. Good, vibrant acidity. Epitomises the smart acid and saltily aromatic style. Lovely purity and concentration. (RH)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink:
2013
–
2016
White
61 months on lees. A bold and successful style. Apple, smoke, bread. Medium body, long, salty finish. It's maximised – but still Muscadet. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2013
–
2015
White
Green apple with lots of floral blossom character. Smooth texture from lees ageing, but refreshingly high acidity. Good range of flavour. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2013
–
2017
White
15% aged in oak, 18 months on lees. Creamy and with significant palate weight for Muscadet. Apricot fruit. On the edge of being atypical, but has a salinity and crispness that remains authentically Muscadet. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink:
2012
–
2016
