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Le Faîte means ‘the top’ and this is the top St-Mont white from the Producteurs Plaimont (established 1979), the forward-thinking co-op, actually a grouping of five co-ops, based in the town of St-Mont about 50 km north of Pau in SW France. (See the map in France's secret South West, an account of a presentation of some of the region's best wines, of which this was one of my favourites.)
Saint-Mont is one of the few wines in France’s VDQS (Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieur) category, the antechamber of full AOC status that is being phased out as wines are promoted. It’s almost a one-horse appellation since Plaimont produce 98% of the wines here – so it’s not really a surprise that it was they who campaigned for its creation. The packaging shown on the right harks back to bottles from the early 20th century, found in a St-Mont cellar in the 1970s, that the co-op used as part of their evidence for the quality of the wines and their right to official classification.
It’s quite a big appellation by the standards of SW France, 1100 ha (2,718 acres), neighbouring Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Tursan. The appellation rules allow the following varieties, of which at least three must be in each wine: Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Clairette (authorised up to 2020!).
Don’t make assumptions when you see this is made by a co-op. This is a very good one – they even voted for self-imposed compulsory hand harvesting and they are strict on yields per vine not just per hectare. The vinification of this wine has been very carefully thought through to bring out the best of each component in the blend: 50% tank-fermented Gros Manseng, plus 15% tank-fermented Arrufiac and 15% tank fermented Petit Courbu; these are then blended with 15% barrel-fermented Petit Manseng and 5% barrel-fermented Petit Courbu. The barrel-fermented portions are given seven further post-fermentation months in barrel (half new). Total production is just 10,000 bottles, one-third of which is sold en primeur. Take away the number you first thought of and pour yourself a glass.
This attention to detail has produced a delicious wine – great with food (witness the impressive restaurant listings below) and with the capacity to age for several years. The ripe fruit combines herbaceous and more tropical flavours such as pineapple and there’s an excellent harmony between the fruity citrus acidity and the creamy, gently honeyed note. There’s also a dash of apricot and the partial barrel fermentation and lees stirring have produced a creamy depth and texture. Yet it remains crisp and has excellent length.
In the UK it’s available for around £12.50 from Adnams, Portland, City Beverage and Georges Barbier, and can be found on the list of restaurants such as Gordon Ramsay, Club Gascon, Midsummer House (Cambridge) and Gerard Basset’s Terravina (New Forest).
Holland (17.99 euros)
Distributors: Wijnhaven Wijnimport. Delft; Karakter wines,Amsterdam. Restaurants: De Librije, Lindenhof, Ron Blaauw, De Zweentheul, Hermitage, Amstel Hotel
Belgium (17.99 euros)
Disrtibutors: Bleuz, Interwine, Kontich; Bernard Poulet, Magnus. Restaurants: Chalet de la Forêt (Brussels), La Belle Maraichère (Brussels. Les Forges du Pont d'Oye (Habay la Neuve). Specialists: Closerie des vignes, Brussels; Knocke, St Hubert and Wijnegem
Luxembourg
Distributor: La Cave du Sommelier, Steinfort; Pascal Carré, meilleur sommelier de Belgique
Switzerland
Distributor: Les Vins de la Moraine
Mexico ($25)
Distributor: Fenocchio S.A de C.V
Ireland (20.99 euros)
Distributor: Mackenway Vintners
France (14.99 euros)
From the winery and specialists and at restaurants such as Hélène Darroze, Carré des Feuillants, La Braisière (Paris), Barnabet (Auxerre), Nouvelle (St-Etienne), Les Près d’Eugenie (Eugenie les Bains).
In Canada, previous vintages were available from the Manitoba Liquor Control Commission.
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