Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Taking over a hallowed space
The Australian chef who used to be in charge of Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant in London now has one of his own. The biggest challenge facing restaurateurs today was brought...
Nick Lander
Sunday 1 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Nick has two solitary meals in Paris. Not haute cuisine but possibly useful addresses. In the 17 years that we...
Nick on restaurants
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. There was an era when the best London restaurants...
Nick on restaurants
Nick tries to enjoy, as well as admire, a somewhat Noma-influenced establishment in Hoxton. Any reviewer has to tread very...
Nick on restaurants
A version of this article about a particularly fine Belgian restaurant is published by the Financial Times. I have for...
Nick on restaurants
Sunday evenings present restaurateurs and hoteliers with a particular challenge that most of the former decline even to rise to...
Nick on restaurants
A useful newish restaurant in Hong Kong with a particularly good wine list. I do not believe that I am...
Nick on restaurants
A top wine bar by any measure, an ultra-modern restaurant with a keen sommelier, and a place that offers refined...
Nick on restaurants
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. As he tucked in to Hangzhou-style stewed duck and...
Nick on restaurants
Nick finds sophistication and West African ingredients in London's St James. Plantain, Raspberry Salt and Smoked Scotch Bonnet Jerusalem Artichoke...
Nick on restaurants
A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. The website of Amarante, a restaurant in Paris’s 12th...
Nick on restaurants
A new hotel chain rises from the Hotel du Vin ashes. Robin Hutson is a man of so many different...
Nick on restaurants
The starry chef takes on coffee and chocolate. There are several significant differences between those who seek perfection in their...
Nick on restaurants
As Chinese New Year (of The Pig) is celebrated, Nick investigates a high-profile newcomer in London. A version of this...
Nick on restaurants
Nick enjoys two meals, slightly too close together. The crowds on the RER from the Gare du Nord to the...
Nick on restaurants
Dinner parties today can be a great source of restaurant recommendations, Nick finds. A version of this article is published...
Nick on restaurants
Nick settles an old score, and comments on a current business saga. Schadenfreude is the experience of pleasure, joy, or...