Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Doppo – Italian restaurant or not?
A gem for wine lovers in London’s Soho. Just part of its giant wine list (temporarily stolen) is shown above. The inherently Italian pleasures of my lunch at Doppo on...
Nick Lander
Sunday 8 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
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Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times.Chefs, restaurateurs and those who are brave enough to back them are...