Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Doppo – Italian restaurant or not?
A gem for wine lovers in London’s Soho. Just part of its giant wine list (temporarily stolen) is shown above. The inherently Italian pleasures of my lunch at Doppo on...
Nick Lander
Sunday 8 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
This article was originally published in Business Life . At this time of year, Europe divides British restaurant goers almost...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Let me divulge a restaurant secret that most chefs would rather...
Nick on restaurants
This article was originally published in Business Life . After 27 years in the restaurant business, initially as a restaurateur...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times.
Paris in the autumn may not sound quite as romantically alluring...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Thierry Tomasin left his home town of Beaumont de Lomagne near...
Inside information
After reading about Jancis’ over-the-top dinner at the French Laundry, I feel somewhat virtuous in reporting on my meal this...
Don't quote me
Greedy masochists might be interested to see the full menu of what I was served at Thomas Keller's French Laundry...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. For the past two months I have been trying to track...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Firstly, the bad news. There is no doubt that menu prices...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. I first met David Pitchford 15 years ago in the car...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Chefs have to have a good sense of humour. It is...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Whether the current outbreak of foot and mouth disease in southern...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Nicholas Oakwell is rapidly emerging as one of the most influential...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. My first meal at La Petite Maison in London, situated on...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Saturday night and Sunday morning are very different affairs in Bagno...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. Water, and lots of it, was the recurring theme in our...