Restaurants
Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team.
Restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
Lebanon in London
Londoners can savour this war-torn country on the plate and by the scoop, Nick points out. The news that there is currently extensive fighting in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley has effectively...
Nick Lander
Sunday 15 March 2026
• 1 min read
More restaurant reviews
Nick on restaurants
As the polite receptionist at Locanda Locatelli in the West End of London took my booking for lunch in late...
Nick on restaurants
While a couple of books, a trip to the British Museum and the internet provided me with enough preliminary information...
Nick on restaurants
In June Chris Galvin, then the Executive Chef of the highly successful Wolseley on Piccadilly, invited me to lunch. As...
Nick on restaurants
In today’s restaurant world chefs travel as widely as the ingredients they use. But it is unlikely that any have...
Nick on restaurants
‘Stuff happens’, Donald Rumsfeld’s rather imprecise comment on the Iraq War, is also an apt summary of daily life in...
Nick on restaurants
The camera, it is said, never lies but I do not believe that television’s current preoccupation with programmes designed to...
Nick on restaurants
When I finally caught up with Graeme Wait, he was carrying the tools of his trade, a briefcase and his...
Nick on restaurants
Towards the end of his speech at the inaugural British Curry Awards Dinner last week in the crowded ballroom of...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. The biggest social change awaiting anyone contemplating a career in restaurants...
Nick on restaurants
Last week Silvano Giraldin, the highly respected maitre d’ of Mayfair’s Le Gavroche, made an unprecedented and unusual faux pas...
Nick on restaurants
A chance encounter with an old friend, with whom I shared many disappointing school lunches over 40 years ago, took...
Nick on restaurants
This article was also published in the Financial Times. On our second visit to San Sebastian this year, this time...
Nick on restaurants
If the leading lights of Britain’s restaurant industry, its chefs, restaurateurs and financial backers, had sat down a decade ago...
Nick on restaurants
Tracking down the most authentic bouillabaisse, that rich, garlicky fish stew which Marseille has so thoughtfully bequeathed to the world...
Nick on restaurants
‘Impressionism Abroad’, the new exhibition at London’s Royal Academy, will give as much pleasure to the thousands who see it...
Nick on restaurants
The Atlantic Ocean divides the profession of restaurant reviewing perhaps even more fundamentally than the pronunciation of potato and tomato...