From Bonarda frizzante to fine Pinot

In Lombardia's south-western corner, Oltrepò Pavese (see this map) is not exactly known as a fine wine destination. It's best known for its huge production of the easily cultivated Bonarda sold as a frizzante, a simple, fizzy red wine. Because of the region's resulting image problem, quality-oriented producers tend to stake their reputation on the other extreme – the notoriously...