Well, well, what a surprise. In a year dominated climatically by stories of heat and drought, frost, hail and forest fires, the odds seemed stacked against a vintage of quality. But that’s what we seem to have. ‘It’s the first time in 31 years I haven’t got the vintage I anticipated’, says a relieved Gonzague Lurton of Ch Durfort-Vivens in Margaux.
Contrary to expectation the vine seems to have adapted...