Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2015 – E-F

Saturday 7 January 2017
Image

See this guide to our extensive coverage of Burgundy 2015. Our picture shows Jean-Marie Fourrier and the reception desk for visiting wine writers in his cuverie, where he is careful to maintain even pressure in all tanks. 

Now that the wines have been sorted into groups by producer, you can sort the wines within those groups by score or appellation.


DOMAINE ARNAUD ENTE 
Certified organic now. Arnaud Ente picked very early, 26-31 August. His 2015s seem if anything to have a little more meat than usual.

White

Tank sample. 70-year-old vines. By the main road in Meursault on gravel.
Extraordinarily rich! Dense and packed full of flavour. 70 years old. Buy! GV? (JR)

Drink: 2017 – 2021
White

Tank sample. This comes from two vineyards in Puligny and one in Meursault. More Puligny because the yields are higher there.
Lean and lively with some matchstick. Great richness on the start and then it tightens up but it tastes much more like a village wine than a Bourgogne. Quite beefy with a menthol overlay. Masses to chew on. Almost fat. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2024
White

Tank sample. 60% fruit from En l'Ormeau and 40% from Les Casse-Têtes.
Racy and lightly smoky with great freshness and tension. More than a nod to Coche-Dury here. Masses to chew on. This deserves much more than a village score. Very throbbing end. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2030
White

Tank sample. This is a selection from En l'Ormeau.
Some strong minerality on the nose. Then richness on the palate. Very tense and lively. That menthol note again. Magic winemaking! Or maybe magic vine growing! (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2038
White

Tank sample. This parcel by Grands Charrons and Chevalières.
Strong smell of wet stones. Rich fruit on the front palate. All builds towards a very meaty, ‘manly’ Hermitage of a Meursault. Masses to chew on. Do not attempt this without food! Very long and muscular. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2037
White

Tank sample. Average yield under 30 hl/ha but in 2015 just 15 hl/ha.
Great intensity and gunmetal on the nose. Rich yet not sweet. Really intense and tense. Beautifully made for the long term. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2042
White

Tank sample. Polished and rather ethereal albeit with lots of substance. Sweet start and arguably less distinctive than some of his special bottlings but big and bold and full of life. Exuberant. Very chewy finish. Needs time. (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2040
White

Tank sample. 0.22 ha.
Racy and polished. With lots of grainy tension and life. Long and great balance between the fruit and acidity. Really long and fine. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2033
White

Tank sample. Masses of exciting mineral notes on the nose. Great tension and tightness but very youthful – too youthful to really show it’s full potential. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2040
Red

Tank sample. Pinot Noir vines in Meursault and Puligny.
Lightly fruity and fresh. A little reduced. Some strawberry fruit but quite demanding. Cranberry juice. Lively rather than satisfying. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2022
Red

Tank sample. Added some vines in 2015. Vines planted in 1992 and (new parcel) 1983.
Good crimson. Quite wild and vegy on the nose. Masses of tannin and acidity – a bit of a wild thing! Grainy and hard work at present. Very drying tannins on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2030

DOMAINE FRÉDÉRIC ESMONIN

Red

Lush cherry fruit but a hint of glue on the nose too – is that some volatile acidity, perhaps? Perhaps it’s just still teething. (RH)

Drink: 2018 – 2024
Price: £225 per case of 12 ib Handford Wines
Red

Much cleaner and more classic than their Boutières Pernand-Vergelesses. Gorgeous cranberry and black cherry flavour with a little spicy earth character and great concentration on the finish. (RH)

Drink: 2018 – 2028
Price: £495 per case of 12 ib Handford Wines

DOMAINE SYLVIE ESMONIN
She was worried about the potential richness...

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