Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2018 – Bl–Bz

Monday 30 December 2019
Claudine and Jean-Marc Blain

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. This photo of Claudine and Jean-Marc Blain of Domaine Blain-Gagnard in Chassagne was taken by Jon Wyand.

The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.

Domaine Marc-Antonin Blain (Chassagne-Montrachet)

White

Son of the owners of Blain-Gagnard.
Super-ripe lemon and green fruits, almost veering to apricot. Creamy too. Powerful in its ripeness but, to my surprise, not lacking in freshness, though the acid seems quite soft. Persistent too. Dense rather than elegant. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Price: £320 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

Monsieur Blain senior explained that his father-in-law left these vines to his grandson – a good way to keep him home in Chassagne when the young are so keen to travel!
Subtle, spicy aroma. Rich, mouth-filling and creamy. Dense rather than fresh – may not appeal to acid lovers but it is balanced in the style of the vintage. Real power here. I am not sure how this will age but there is so much matière that it could do better than I expect.
(JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £840 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

A little darker and more spicy on the nose than Blain’s parents’ wine. More savoury, more tannic, and less immediate appeal but will perhaps have a longer life? (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Price: £210 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Vines aged 80+ years.
Deepish crimson. Rich and ripe on the nose, spicy, oak showing but not overdone. Firm, chewy, compact, deep and long and embryonic. Sturdy rather than elegant, for now at least. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2032
Price: £335 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Domaine Blain-Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)

White

Delicate, slightly stony citrus with a light touch of oak spice. Gently chewy texture, broad but finishes tighter and fresher. Spicy aftertaste. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2024
Price: £285 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

Bottled in November because the fermentation did not finish until July 2019! Other whites bottled August 2019.
The fruit is more tangy here than on the Chassagne, more grapefruit. Oak influence nicely restrained. Really good depth of fruit here so that the oak spice is not dominant. Fresh and spicy on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2025
Price: £305 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

Ripe, baked apple and a full and relatively sweet style. Open, with a nutty palate and a touch of finish warmth. Forward and open. (TJ)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
Price: £220 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
White

Rich and spicy on the nose. Creamy oak in evidence. On the palate, that same rich creaminess, broad and spicy with just enough freshness. Good fruit depth and a long spicy finish but could do with just a little more zip to be really refreshing. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Price: £425 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

Open and spicy on the nose. Ripe citrus and the sweetness of oak. Tighter on the palate than the Boudriotte, better balance and a long spicy finish. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £480 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

A little bit smoky/reductive on the nose but it’s subtle. Power and spicy intensity on the palate. Broad and length and again the freshness is as much in the spice as in the acidity. Long, deep, creamy finish. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Price: £735 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Lightish crimson. Sweet cherry fruit, open. Chewy chocolate-smooth tannins. Firm yet harmonious. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Price: £195 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

60-year-old vines.
Mid crimson. Pretty, almost floral and alive with red fruits. Dry and taut on the palate, upright, with quite a grip and chewy finish. Needs time. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Price: £295 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Domaine Henri Boillot (Meursault)

White

Bottled. Powerfully herbal on the nose. Sweet start and then tense. Maybe just a little too opulent? I think for the money I might choose a J-M Boillot. It’s rich and winning. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2032
Price: £720 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

Wow, ‘I remember when this cost just… ’, and when it was a regular on British Airways! Bottled.
Actually, this doesn’t seem quite as tense and smouldering as when it was a J-M Boillot wine. But perhaps my memory is playing tricks on me. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2033
Price: £1090 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Bottled. Bright, fairly pale crimson. This smells much more appetising than many of the Rossignol wines just tasted. Though it’s certainly less obviously ripe, dramatic and sweet. All in the right place and still a little raw. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2040
Price: £855 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Bottled. Broad, winning nose with tight structure and marked acidity. It should all come right … eventually. Very bright, energetic fruit. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2045
Price: £750 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot (Pommard)

White

Bottled. In naughty heavy bottles still.
Quite rich start and then a good fist of matchstick at first than subsides and produces a wine that no-one could object to (apart from the price) – glam and smoky. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2030
Price: £430 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

A cereal and mealy note with a subtle flinty note. The fruit is fairly generous and plump on the palate, quite a broad style. (AC)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
Price: £219 per case of 6 ib Armit Wines
White

Bottled. Stony citrus on the nose and then unexpected sweet lemon fruit on the palate. Very attractively rounded while remaining fresh. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Price: £225 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
White

Bottled. A bit mealy and unfocused initially but with excellent tension, reduction and – possibly – a little dissolved carbon dioxide to give it energy? Few would be disappointed by this, though it’s slightly smoke and mirrors. (JR)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Price: £185 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

There is a zesty freshness to the palate here which supports the creamy mid palate, again quite a broad style and should give early pleasure. (AC)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
Price: £336 per case of 6 ib Armit Wines
White

Bottled. Edgy and exciting and with the richness of the vintage. Will presumably always please. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2032
Price: £650 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

Bottled. More stony than the Garenne. And a fine herbal freshness. Tight, pure, then creamy on the finish. Not intense but well balaced. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2027
Price: £325 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis

Domaine Louis Boillot and Louis Boillot

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