Representing merely 1% of the vineyard area, Syrah must be New Zealand’s biggest vinous overachiever. The founder of Dry River, one of the country’s most respected producers, thinks that the country’s Syrah is better than its Pinot Noir, and I agree.
Among wine insiders, the reputation of NZ Syrah is reasonably well established. As a relatively cool-climate country, it is naturally inclined to produce spicy, fragrant Syrahs, rather than the fuller, heavier Shirazes with which neighbouring Australia is...