Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting

Unnatural selection

• 3 min read
Image

Hands up who’s had a Caesarean section? On average, that should be around 35% of all mothers. And, for avoidance of doubt, 0% of everyone else. But what’s really interesting is why that average figure among mothers is currently increasing.

According to this BBC story, one explanation for this increase is effectively a defiance of natural selection:

'Why is the rate of birth problems, in particular what we call fetopelvic disproportion – basically that the baby doesn't fit through the maternal birth canal – why is this rate so high? Without modern medical intervention such problems often were lethal and this is, from an evolutionary perspective, selection. Women with a very narrow pelvis would not have survived birth 100 years ago. They do now and pass on their genes encoding for a narrow pelvis to their daughters.'

So says Dr Philipp Mitteroecker of the University of Vienna. On a similar theme, Dr Harvey Fineberg’s 2011 TED talk considers neo-evolution; that is, how we are increasingly determining our own biological destinies via genetic engineering. It is already possible to select the gender of your next child, for example – a procedure yuckily euphemised as ' family balancing’ by one of its leading proponents in California.

Fineberg goes on to consider what other modifications might be possible within a few generations – such as genetically improved longevity, fitness or creativity. This vision of evolution supplants natural selection with deliberate selection, but the underlying principle stays the same: that we are starting to control our own destinies. If you have a spare 17 minutes, I thoroughly recommend watching his talk in its entirety.

Wine is said to evolve in the bottle over time, but is it evolving in other ways too? Are we witnessing natural selection within the culture of wine?

Perhaps this is nothing new. After all, grapevines have artificially evolved through centuries of selective breeding and cultivation. All the major wine grape varieties grown today have been manipulated in some way, whether by clonal selection, mass selection or crossing.

Fineberg says that evolution favours those who are ‘best adapted to their environment’, but grapes are also chosen for their quality of flavour and structure, even when they aren’t especially well-suited to a given environment – there would be easier varieties to ripen in Burgundy and Bordeaux than Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, for example.

Indeed, one such is Cabernet Jura, which is now being grown by Ducourt in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux. It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and another (undisclosed) disease-resistant variety. As technology improves, and in the context of a changing climate, might these  new grapevines eventually supersede the sacrosanct noble varieties?

All the evidence would suggest that something along those lines is likely. Determining a timescale is far more tricky, however. Nothing in viticulture happens suddenly – but what if we were to imagine 200 years into the future, or 2,000? Inevitably, things will be very different – although none of us will be here to witness it. With the possible exception of Dr Fineberg.

EVOLUTION BY SELECTED BREEDING?

The possibility of genetically altered human beings evokes an uneasy fascination. It infers a classification system, the implications of which have terrible consequences – as in the 2013 film Elysium, in which elite humans live in outer-space luxury, leaving the poor and disadvantaged to a life of misery on a godforsaken earth.

Pifflingly unimportant by comparison, there is nonetheless a parallel to be drawn with wine. The difference between the world’s most elite and most proletarian wines becomes ever more distinct – in price, at least. Perhaps this is not the specific fault of wine, but can be blamed on the nature of our global economy: as wealth continues to grow for the richest, so their spending capacity increases and the world’s most valuable wines become increasingly expensive.

But where does that leave the world’s under-privileged wines? In a sci-fi scenario, they would be left to degenerate into a sub-species that bears little resemblance to its most successful relations. Indeed, some might suggest this has already happened.

But that would be unfair. The quality of all wine continually improves with each generation, and standards today are higher than ever before, bringing far greater reliability and diversity to the world's wine drinkers. For as long as all wine continues to improve in this way, the idea of a genetically superior class of wine remains science fiction. Instead, a natural course of evolution will continue to see wine adapt to changing tastes and changing circumstances. The great wines of the future may be very different to what we know now.

And if that's something worth living longer for, call Dr Fineberg.

选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 294,973 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,085 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 294,973 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,085 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 294,973 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,085 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 294,973 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,085 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Hemming's spittoon

Casks maturing in a sherry bodega
Hemming's spittoon Richard revives his Spittoon column with the curious story of the Jerezanos' other business. Which traditional white wine is aged...
Rollercoaster
Hemming's spittoon Wine doesn't always have to be great, argues Richard. Most wines I taste are of average quality. Mediocre. 15.5 out...
Image
Hemming's spittoon Is finding the right food and wine match ever possible? Probably ... When you consider the virtually infinite number of...
Image
Hemming's spittoon How technology is being used to share every detail of how a wine is produced – for free. If you...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Beaujolais vineyard harvest imminent
Tasting articles Bien Boire (‘drinking well’) en Beaujolais is more fun than Bordeaux’s primeurs and offers plenty of excellent wines, reports Natasha...
Alessandro Campatelli of Riecine
Tasting articles 炎热年份中的惊喜。上图,里埃奇内 (Riecine) 酒庄的总监兼酿酒师(现在也是庄主)亚历山德罗·坎帕泰利 (Alessandro...
Japanese Wine by Nick Rowan - book cover
Book reviews 尼克·罗文 (Nick Rowan) 的新书是一本极其完整的日本葡萄酒(和奶酪!)指南,适合业余爱好者和专业人士。 日本葡萄酒 历史、产区...
Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork...
female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
Free for all 保琳·维卡德 (Pauline Vicard) 问道,葡萄酒还能证明其文化相关性吗?这个问题的答案,而非经济学,可能会变得至关重要...
Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale
Free for all 詹西斯 (Jancis) 被翡翠岛的杂交葡萄品种所折服。本文的简化版发表于金融时报 (Financial Times)。爱尔兰时报...
Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier bottle and glass of wine outdoors, on table with books
Wines of the week 一款适合夏日的丝滑白葡萄酒,广泛供应,价格仅从 8.99美元,20.90英镑 起。 这是纳帕酒庄松岭 (Pine Ridge) 的隐藏爆款...
Split Rail vineyard
Tasting articles 加利福尼亚最西端葡萄园探索系列第四部分。上图为科拉利托斯 (Corralitos) 的分轨葡萄园 (Split Rail vineyard)...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.