What Guy Jullien thinks of Châteauneuf

On Saturday we published Nick’s account of our most recent visit to the hotel-restaurant La Beaugravière in Mondragon in the southern Rhône, a mecca for lovers of great wine at fair prices, truffles and nylon tablecloths. (The Julliens are such hard workers, I suspect they just don’t notice their décor.) There is always some significant local wine producer at at least one of the tables and sometimes more. This is the restaurant chosen by the hugely respected restaurant critic François Simon of Le Figaro as his favourite restaurant in all of France.