A new alternative to appellation contrôlée?

The Gagey family who run Louis Jadot of Beaune have always been ultra-reliable spokespeople for Burgundy. I remember André G being a grand not-so-old man but now it is the turn of his boyish-looking son Pierre-Henry to be the porte-parole.

What was most interesting about his recent observations on the Burgundy market was his frank admission of how bad things are for a significant sector of it. His point is that in Burgundy today there are two sorts of producer and merchant: one which makes serious wine and (so far) manages to sell practically every single bottle and another...