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I recently sang the praises of Glorious Godello in this slot, and will be publishing tasting notes on a small further range of some of the most ambitious examples soon, but Albariño and Godello certainly aren't the only interesting white wine grape varieties that are benefiting from re-evaluation in north-west Spain.
Treixadura, known as Trajadura over the border in Portugal's Vinho Verde country, is the dominant vine in Spain's Ribeiro region and is also grown in Rias Baixas, Monterrei, Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra, in all of which it is usually blended with Albariño, Loureira and/or Godello.
But Inma Pazos, who started making wine in Rias Baixas after
graduating in oenology, believes that Treixadura, like Godello in Valdeorras, has real potential as a single varietal wine. In fact she thinks it is more noble and serious than Albariño. Ailalá Treixadura 2010 Ribeiro is the debut wine of a new project she has formed with two other young winemakers, Xosé Lois of Coto de Gomariz (where the wine is made) and Javier Gonzales of Casal de Arman.
The company formed by this collaboration is called Ailalá-Ailalelo which, I am assured by UK importers Enotria, is a sort of Galician variant on Olé. It's part of the Ribeiros do Avia association of small, superior producers in the region. They have many missions, one of which is to promote indigenous varieties in the region, and Treixadura in particular. The grapes for this lively wine come from some of the best sites in the Avia Valley.
The wine is 100% Treixadura. The grapes were picked by hand in September before undergoing a whole-bunch cold soak for eight hours. They were then crushed and pressed and fermented for 14 days at 16 ºC in stainless steel. Treixadura can be a little low in acidity which is presumably why malolactic fermentation was suppressed.
I found this wine very appetising with a rather smoky nose and some citrus notes, athough it is definitely bigger and less nervy than a typical Godello. There was substantial fruit on the mid palate without a lot of alcohol – just 13%. Apparently, Inma is convinced that Treixadura wines can age, but I would not keep this into next year. There is excellent balance of fruit and acidity and this very well made wine with a good, punchy finish, is bone dry. Brits can buy it online at Great Western Wine. It is also available in the Netherlands.
