See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage.
It could be argued that St-Julien is becoming rather less of a dependable guiding light in the Médoc landscape, not least thanks to Bruno Borie's exuberance at Ducru-Beaucaillou. Certainly the contrast between the stolid, chunky wines from the Barton stable and the rest seems to become more marked by the year. Gloria and St-Pierre keep on producing the goods though.
The interesting newcomer is the third wine from Las Cases, Le Petit Lion. Jean-Hubert Delon was another prominent left banker who rather repudiated his Merlot in 2009.
Very dark crimson. Crimson, purple rim. Dense and peppery and quite mineral. Much more serious on the nose than the Croix de Beaucaillou. Very polished. Lots of energy. Bone dry, spicy finish. Pretty drying tannins. Not really as soft as Bruno Borie maintains, I think. Cool and slightly tarry. Very very youthful. 13.5%
NB: Le Petit Lion is the second wine of Léoville Las Cases, whereas Clos du Marquis is made from separate vineyards.