After the white wines I reported on yesterday, things went rapidly downhill.
The less famous St-Émilions were really no fun at all. Fairly pale, tart and charmless, they illustrated well why red bordeaux doesn’t sell. Most of the rest of the tasters, wine merchants, bent over backwards, I felt, to give them the benefit of the doubt, arguing that we used to give the producers flack when they made exaggeratedly alcoholic...
