Italian bargains at Marks & Spencer

Britain's most famous supermarket – sorry, upmarket retailer – has an Italian promotion on at the moment, offering 20%off all Italian wines until May 9. I tasted some of the Italians of which they are most proud yesterday and found good buys at the top and bottom ends of the price range.

Nerello Mascalese 2003 IGT Sicilia from the Coppiere co-op shows all the bright red cherry fruit of this eastern Sicilian grape (Nero d'Avola is the western one), with absolutely no potential for ageing whatsoever. However it is very charming for the £3.99 regular price and an extremely good...