Italy from top to toe


Italian wine, with its confusing nomenclature and elastic regulations, is the very model of a modern major genre of wine at its most convoluted. Very little about Italian wine is ever definitive – whether it be Brunellogate, Glera or any of the many other confusions, Italy is plagued by undefinability.

Bravely then, the Definitive Italian Tasting in London recently sought to order this vinous chaos, and the notes below were taken from the 'Italian Journey' selection, which grouped bottles together by region. Notes are presented likewise, and alphabetically by producer (sur)name within each section. It was interesting to taste...