La Conseillante at Bray

Lindsay Hamilton, co-founder of London fine wine traders Farr Vintners in 1978 but since the end of March 2008 a man of leisure, files this report on one of the many lunches to which he has been invited since news of his (amicable) departure from Farr began to filter out.

Thursday morning rain, lengthy train journey to La Conseillante tasting arranged by Richards Walford – not the best start to the day and my mood was not helped by the tube – stuck in the tunnel (bless Ken [Livingstone, now ex-mayor of London] for improving the buses but he did...