Report from Bordeaux 3

I left you as I raced out of the door for my 9 am appointment at Cheval Blanc yesterday, but in fact I arrived half an hour early. Undeterred, young winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet valiantly assembled the bottles at 8.30 in a room in the château I remembered sitting in with Jacques Hébrard and his family decades ago when he gave me my trial by blind tasting at his family supper table (described in my memoir Confessions of a Wine Lover/Tasting Pleasure).

This was an appointment full of transformations. The Cheval team took over Ch Quinault L'Enclos from Dr Alain...