The winey champagnes of Selosse

Anselme Selosse makes complex and delicious wines, much more wine than champagne, even though they have bubbles. Selosse himself recommends that they be decanted, and they seemed to me to reveal themselves more and more as the bubbles dissipated at this tasting organised by Roberson Wine.

The increasing popularity and diversity of grower champagnes can be credited at least in part to the pioneering work of Selosse, who trained in Beaune in the 1970s at a time when domaine bottling was taking off. (Both Jérôme Prévost and François Egly have worked for Selosse.) He took back to Champagne a...