Reports of the 2005 Bordeaux harvest are flowing in thick and fast. Here are some verbatim. Astute readers will read between the lines (and take a close look at my earlier report).
Bill Blatch, Vintex, arguably the single most informative Bordeaux wine merchant:
Everything’s looking remarkably good, given the drought conditions. Three weeks ago, some growers were alluding to 2003, and the similarity of too much heat is certainly there. But the fundamental difference is higher acidity in 2005, and very few heat-shrivelled or heat–stunted grapes. Most areas have had almost no rainfall since May, so the July heat and the August patches of heat were no surprise to the vines, except for some younger vines on light soils. 2003 was a heat problem; 05 is more a drought problem, which is less serious.
Wednesday last week and over the weekend, there were a few mm of rain everywhere in Bordeaux apart from the North and South Médoc, which was just what we needed and has re-invigorated the foliage and encouraged everyone to delay their picking dates a little. (Most whites already started, most Merlots now planned for 26 or may be advanced to 22 [sep, I assume, and I also assume this is a left bank observation -JR], most Cabs not far behind this year).
Grape analyses show very high sugar readings, quite high acidities but, on the reds, not yet quite perfect extractability. If it remains fine, they will evolve into some perfect kind of balance probably; if it pours with rain, of course there will be some dilution and grape-splitting and everyone will have to pick in a hurry but, unlike 1976, the ripening is much more regular and further advanced at this stage.
Sauternes is looking superb, mostly at golden grape stage of 13-15°, and the botrytis just starting, and nice acidities from the cool nights. So the gear-change between ripening and botrytis-induced concentration looks like it will be just as smooth as in 2001 at this stage.
Let’s keep our fingers crossed!
Fabien Teitgen, technical director, Ch Smith-Haut-Lafitte:
After a dry, cold winter and accumulated rainfall of 100 mm in January, February, and March – as compared to 252 mm in 2004 and 170 mm in 2000 (figures from the Château Smith Haut Lafitte weather station) – the month of April was wetter, totalling 117 mm of precipitation. Four months of very dry weather then set in, with only 69 mm of rain (as opposed to 228 mm in 2004 and 222 mm in 2000). This means that total combined precipitation as of January 2005 was 284 mm, compared to 590 mm in 2004 ,541 in 2003 and 516 in 2000. It is thus hardly surprising that water restrictions have been imposed in the Bordeaux region, it is forbidden to water lawns and plants, and emergency financial relief is being discussed for farmers.
Of course, temperature also has an essential influence on ripening. Drought and heat are often spoken of in the same breath. However, while 2005 is a very dry year, it is not an especially hot one. If we compare accumulated temperatures in 2003 (3,746° C ) and 2005 ( 3,231° C), it is clear that 2005 is much more dry than it is hot.
These weather conditions obviously affected vine growth as well as ripening. Hot weather tends to produce grapes with higher sugar, but lower acidity (as was the case in 2003). Vintages that are less hot generally have more acidity, providing balance and freshness to our wines, especially the whites.
Drought conditions are a real problem for young wines that have not developed a sufficiently deep root system to find water in the subsoil. Certain young vines (five years old) in half of a plot at Smith Haut Lafitte and a plot at Cantelys are showing signs of dehydration: small grapes and ‘floppy’ leaves. However, the old vines on the Smith Haut Lafitte plateau have deep roots and reduced vigour. Their low yields have protected them from major hydric stress. This is why we concentrated most of our green harvesting on plots of young vines on both estates, leaving just six bunches per vine.
Drought conditions are fortunately the enemy of mould and rot, especially grey rot. The vines are extremely healthy at present. There is no rot anywhere. Furthermore, our use of organic compost over the past eight years, our traditional viticultural methods, and our avoidance of chemical weed killers has undoubtedly contributed to our vines’ natural resistance to disease.
The flowering took place quickly and evenly. We did some leaf thinning on the east-facing side of the vines, and the véraison (colour change) took place as expected (starting on 20 jul for the white wines, and finishing with Petit Verdot in mid-August). The canes have already become mature and the pips are becoming lignified. The potential alcohol of Sauvignon Gris at Château Smith Haut Lafitte was already over 12.5° on 23 aug.
The fruit is very healthy, acidity is good, the grapes are ripening nicely, and they are quite tasty. In short, we have all the hallmarks of a beautiful crop. Our unique terroir at Smith Haut Lafitte is perfect at regulating water supply, providing the necessary nourishment to old vines (average age of 35 years) deep down. Château Cantelys has resisted better than in 2003. It is a fact that water regimens vary from one estate to another, and we are very fortunate at Smith Haut Lafitte. However, let us wait until the end of the harvest before making any definitive pronouncements.
We began picking white wine grapes by the Sauvignon Gris on Monday 05 sep. Until this date if the alcoholic degree was high, the phenolic maturity was not still here. Today [07 sep] we began picking the Sauvignon Blancs and the first juices are superb, showing ripe fruits as apricot and bush peach. After the first pressings, the musts are rich and well balanced (natural potential alcohol: 13.5-14 and total acidity: 4-4.5). We should start picking the Merlots within 10 days.
Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux:
Vin Blanc Sec
The first Sauvignon Blanc grapes of the 2005 Bordeaux vintage have been harvested at Château Haut-Brion and Château Carbonnieux in the Pessac Leognan appellation. Closely followed by white grapes in the rest of the Pessac Leognan region (01 sep 05), always the first appellation to reach maturation. The 2005 harvest has begun comparatively early, compared to 2004, which began on 08 sep. The climate conditions are perfect, with sunny days and fresh nights. Early signs are that the whites will be well balanced with good aroma.
Vin Rouge
There is still approximately two weeks [report dated 08 sep] remaining before the harvest of the red grapes begins. It is too early to hypothesise on the quality, but the red wine vines are in perfect condition with no sign of rot or illness and the weather forecast for the coming days is excellent.
Weather Conditions
The weather conditions over the 2005 growth period have been exceptional, however the presiding characteristic of 2005 has been the drought, affecting the whole of France.
For the period of 12 months, between 01 sep 04 and 28 aug 05, there has only been 520 mm of rain, a massive deficit in relation to previous years. On average, in the last 30 years there has been 922 mm of rainfall. Rainfall over the same period: 791mm in 2004, 756 mm in 2003, 600 mm in 2002.
Quality v Quantity
The first estimations for volume anticipate a decrease compared to the 2004 harvest. France's national appellations body, the INAO, will publish the authorised yields for the 2005 vintage on 08 sep – a decision made by the INAO in conjunction with the various Syndicats Viticoles.
The CIVB’s priority is that Bordeaux production is in line with the commercialisation capacity, and as such provides recommendations and data to the producers on this subject. In response to the worldwide over- production of wine, the CIVB in July 2004, decided to limit sales of the future 2004 vintage to 50 hectolitres per hectare.
Earlier in 2005, Christian Delpeuch the President of the CIVB, put forward a tactical plan to re-balance supply and demand. ‘The Bordeaux Plan’, is comprised of 20 measures which in essence equate to ‘produce better, produce less, produce differently’.