Truffles – precious for Piemontese sustainability

Arnica Rowan smelling a black and a white truffle in Piemonte

Arnica Rowan, seen here, describes hunting for the luxury product vying with vines for land in the Langhe hills, which should not be partnered with Barolo, according to her hosts.

The hounds stand up on their back feet, pressed up against the fence of their enclosure, and whine in anticipation.

‘They are excited to hunt the truffles’, explains Giorgio Romagnolo, patting one on the head with an indulgent smile. He passes me a long wooden staff, springs open the locked gate, and the lean Italian hounds bound out into the farmyard. We are off, the hounds leading the way through the foggy courtyard, across...