VDP 2011s – Pfalz & Franken

Michael Schmidt gives us an overview of this stunning vintage in Germany's 2011s – truly exceptional. Also see his tasting notes on the VDP wines from Nahe, Rheingau and Rheinhessen and Mosel, Saar and Ruwer. We will subsequently be reviewing many more German 2011s.

Wines are grouped by region, then by producer in alphabetical order. 

PFALZ

ACHAM-MAGIN

Acham-Magin, Privat Collection Riesling Kabinett trocken 2011 Pfalz

Coming from the Forster Stift vineyard, the so-called private collection edition bears a very strong expression of its basalt origin, with a pronounced salty tang dominating proceedings on the palate. A small contribution of fresh green fruit provides a point of interest. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
15.5

Acham-Magin, Purist Riesling Kabinett trocken 2011 Pfalz

‘Purist’ needs no translation and this is bone dry, raspingly fresh and uncompromisingly minerally stuff, almost like licking a salt cube. Even Riesling masochists may not consider this as an aperitif, but with the right food I can see the attraction. Not for the faint palate! (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16

Acham-Magin, Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Riesling Kabinett trocken 2011 Pfalz

The Maushöhle treats us to a little more fruit than its predecessors, but the peachy fruit still comes with a fair share of minerality, and if chalky may be allowed as a sensory impression, this is as close as it gets. If any further tonic was needed, a dash of quinine does the trick. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16.5

Acham-Magin, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Kabinett trocken 2011 Pfalz

Because of its sheer size, the monster (as apt a translation of ‘Ungeheuer’ as any) has received a lot of criticism as a GG, and Acham-Magin decided to downgrade to Kabinett trocken only. A light salty tang combines well with ripe green and yellow fruit, a delicate spicy note adds some intrigue. Full bodied and well structured this is a well-behaved monster. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16.5

Acham-Magin, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Kabinett trocken 2011 Pfalz

The soil composition of the Reiterpfad could almost be called a hotchpotch, but the Acham-Magin estate has managed to turn this into a very attractive mélange of minerality, spice and fruit. More approachable than its counterparts, describing it as pleasant may sound patronising, but it is certainly enjoyable even at this early stage. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16.5

Acham-Magin, Sommertraum Riesling Spätlese trocken 2011 Pfalz

A cuvée of a number of sites, the 'summer’s dream' represents the fruity alternative to the Eruption’s cutting edge. This is not to say that the Sommertraum lacks backbone, but flinty and crisp notes take a supporting role rather than the lead. Centre stage is taken by a juicy and generous expression of almost exotic fruit. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16.5

BASSERMANN-JORDAN

Bassermann-Jordan, Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Clean, fresh and very dry, this uncompromising style is definitely not aimed at the export market. I have never eaten the firm flesh of a juicy mango in a cool pine forest, but for some reason I associate the essence of this wine with a similar experience. (MS)
Drink
2012
2014
15.5

Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Still slightly yeasty, but some attractive peach aromas are beginning to emerge. Though a little broader than the estate Riesling, an honest acidity matches the full body well. A slightly earthy tangent pairs with a delicate note of kernel to give an extra dimension to the flavour foundation of grapefruit and peaches. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16

Bassermann-Jordan, Forster Ungeheuer Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Still fairly restrained on the nose with just a hint of citrus fruit, the palate is a little more generous, the fruit tangent almost bordering onto the tropical. A zesty citrussy edge combines with mouthwatering acidity to create an impression of glacier-like freshness. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16.5

BERNHART


DR BÜRKLIN-WOLF

Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Delicate green fruit aromas with a light citric nose. Generous flavour with a seductive sweet and sour interaction. Initially quite soft, a lemony edge on the finish takes it beyond the merely pleasant. (MS)
Drink
2012
2014
15.5

Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Citrus fruit on the nose with just a splash of peaches. Full bodied and rounded, but with enough juicy acidity to provide an attractive angle. Any residual sugar is kept well in check. Very convincing performance at the Pfalz ‘villages’ level, dry, but generous with it. (MS)
Drink
2012
2015
16

Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer Böhlig PC Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Pronounced fragrance of yellow fruit opens the curtain to a broad and soft style of dry Riesling without a trace of austerity. Mirabelle and fruit flavours are embedded in a creamy texture to extend an invitation for early drinking. For those not familiar with Riesling trocken this might be an ideal starting point. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16.5

ÖKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ

Rebholz, Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Estate entry trocken with a fine balance of fruit (pear and melon), fair acidity, full body and delicate flinty note. Quite soft and approachable. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16

Rebholz, Vom Buntsandstein S Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Quite a bit different from 2010’s fiercely acidic offering. Almost perfumed on the nose with peachy aromas, a buttery texture softens the impact of well-preserved acidity on the palate. Pfalz authenticity is assured by a clean earthy flavour on the finish. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16.5

Rebholz, Vom Muschelkalk S Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Very attractive aroma of vineyard peaches reflects the use of grapes ripened to perfection. Here’s one he picked later! An almost chewy minerally flavour brings some structure to the generous expression of fruit. Delicate earthy and spicy notions heighten the sensory pleasure. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16.5

Rebholz, Vom Rotliegenden S Riesling trocken 2011 Pfalz

Marginally my favourite of the Rebholz trocken offerings. The generous stone fruit aromas are perfectly complemented by juicy grapefruit and peach flavours, a mouthwatering acidity and a savoury edge of minerality. You could almost forget it’s dry! Great substance and length. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
17

FRANKEN

RUDOLF FÜRST

Rudolf Fürst, Pur Mineral Riesling 2011 Franken

Some may find this Franken trocken on the savage side of dry, but it does what it says on the tin (or label in this instance). However, the pronounced salty minerality is ably complemented by an attractive flavour of lime. Gravelly and rugged like Clint Eastwood the pure mineral hits the palate hard, but not without the support of its trusty side-kicks full body and sound acidity. (MS)
Drink
2012
2016
16

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