My trip to Australia earlier this year was focused on Victoria’s cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, but they were not, by far, the only wines we got to taste. And this led to a couple of revelations for me, the most unexpected of which was how very good Victoria’s Shiraz and Pinot Gris turn out to be. Not just good, but kind of singular – intangibly different and arguably unique to the region.
The first Shiraz we tasted was...