The Jancis Robinson Story (ポッドキャスト) | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

Biodynamics beyond Harry Potter

• 4 分で読めます
Image

Instead of delving into our archives this Thursday, we publish Nigel Greening of Felton Road's enthusiastic response to Katia Nussbaum's recent article. See also the many thoughtful responses on our Members' forum

The thoughts of Katia Nussbaum are ones that have been reverberating around many biodynamic producers for some time. As the acceptance of biodynamic farming and viticulture has grown, more and more farmers are convinced evangelists for the 'dynamic ecosystem' approach: the idea that we can understand and form sympathetic alliances with the underlying ecosystems of our land and this lies at the heart of successful biodynamic farming.

While I am absolutely convinced that this is the right path, it would be naive to imagine that this is a generally held view in the biodynamic community. There is a substantial body of those who are equally convinced that the whole thing runs on cosmic energies that cannot be understood by science and anything that breaks the holy trinity of cow horns, stag’s bladders and astrology is tantamount to heresy.

I don’t want to create cabals of Sunnis and Shiites among the biodynamic community, nor the wider wine world, so I am not going to challenge or claim that there is some sort of 'true path'. But it would be sensible to extend this debate.

Katia discusses the concepts of consciousness among plants and ecosystems, about the ways they can communicate and co-operate. If this sounds flakey to some, that is probably because they are applying human prejudice to terms such as consciousness and co-operation.

If we can start with Darwin. The sheer brilliance of evolution is that it causes incredible mimicry of design (an intellectual process), both in physical form and behaviour, without any actual design taking place. Dawkins has so beautifully expressed this in The Blind Watchmaker (Norton & Co, 1986). He shows us how it is that an unthinking process creates things that we find (in our prejudice) almost impossible to imagine as not being part of some intelligent plan. I still have regularly to remind myself that this all happens by evolution without any thought taking place. The co-operation of species and between species happens with communication, but often without language or thought (we might argue about language, depending on how we might try to define the word).

Consciousness has often been generally regarded as a function of higher brain activity, needing language, logic and awareness. But some of the leading philosophers and neuroscientists today are challenging this view. Guilio Tononi is a neuroscientist working in this field and his ideas gel with those of philosopher David Chalmers. They see consciousness as something that does not have an intellectual threshold and consciousness is something that stretches through all communication. Their work in integrated information theory is stupefyingly hard to get one's head around (good wine is definitely handy here), but they would see the sorts of communication networks that plants enjoy along with the consequential co-operation and actions they stimulate as an example of consciousness. There is no suggestion of intellectual thought being involved, nor sentience. Trees don’t have brains, but nevertheless there is communication and co-operation between them and Chalmers would say that there is a level of consciousness.

The idea of co-operation without thought or intellect is an exact parallel of evolution without design. It isn’t weird, flaky or 'out there'. It is simply a process evolved among communities of living things: plants, animals, bacteria and so on. It is wonderful, and is definitely a key to understanding plant behaviour. (A great example of this, though animal not plant, is coral spawning. Corals don’t have iPhones or secretaries, but all of them need to spawn in a synchronous fashion for the eggs to be fertilised. They all synchronise to the moon, a great example of celestial influence that is demonstrated to be real, and they use this external Filofax to simultaneously mate. No intellectual process is involved, just an evolved scheduling using a generally available external clock. Communication and co-operation exist without intellect but still form a swarm consciousness).

Katia’s thoughts on mycorrhizal fungi closely match ours. For some time now we have run a programme where we harvest these fungi from our vineyards and send them to the nursery that grafts and grows our young vines. When they grow the rootstock, and then the young vines, for our vineyards, they start their life growing in the fungal ecosystem of the precise vineyard in which they will later be planted. (Below are Felton Road's goats, raised for manure, and roasting.)

Equally her thoughts on fitness are profound. While there is no doubt that nature can be ruthless, it is definitely true that ecosystems thrive more on co-operation and balance than they do on conflict.

The question, I suppose, is this: yes, this is a brilliant way to farm, yes, it produces good results. But is it biodynamics?

I think it is, despite the lack of reliance on cosmic energies, potions and astrological calendars. I was wondering what Steiner might think but, really, that doesn’t matter. He’s been dead a long time and ideas are not responsible for, or to, the people who thought them up.

Ideas that are not challenged become dogma. Ultimately a manual for better farming (for that is surely what biodynamics is?) can become a quasi religion. It may enrage some, or many, but everything should be open to reasoned enquiry. The idea that some principles are sacred is deeply unhealthy. Science is about curiosity, about not knowing, but wanting to know. It always worries me the number of biodynamic farmers who seem to be almost gleefully anti-science. Being anti-science is about being anti-knowledge. We have to embrace enquiry, new knowledge, and change to be better farmers. And that means being wary of dogma. Yuval Harari has put it brilliantly: 'A question you can’t answer is better for you than an answer you can’t question.'

購読プラン
スタンダード会員
$135
/年間
年間購読
ワイン愛好家向け
  • 297,433件のワインレビュー および 16,163本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • askJancisへのアクセス(AIワインアシスタント)
プレミアム会員
$249
/年間
 
本格的な愛好家向け

「メンバー」プランの内容に加えて

  • 最新ワインレビューへの早期アクセス(48時間前)
  • 最新記事への早期アクセス(48時間前)
プロフェッショナル
$299
/年間
ワイン業界関係者(個人)向け 
  • 297,433件のワインレビュー および 16,163本の記事 読み放題
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine および 世界のワイン図鑑 (The World Atlas of Wine)
  • askJancisへのアクセス(AIワインアシスタント)
  • 最新のワイン・レビュー と記事に先行アクセス(一般公開の48時間前より)
  • 最大25件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
ビジネスプラン
$399
/年間
法人購読

「プロフェッショナル」プランの内容に加えて

  • 最大250件のワインレビューおよびスコアを商業利用可能(マーケティング用)
  • レビュー依頼用のワインを提出可能
  • 従業員向けにメンバーシップを提供し、一元的に管理可能
  • APIアクセス(※別途料金)
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
で購入
ニュースレター登録

編集部から、最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。

プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます。

More 無料で読める記事

WWC Generic image black
無料で読める記事 2026年ワイン・ライティング・コンペティションへの心を打つ応募作品として、チャーリー...
Alaverdi Monastery, in Akhmeta, Kakheti
無料で読める記事 ジョージアのワインは驚きを与え続けている。この記事のショート・バージョンはフィナンシャル・タイムズにも掲載されている。テイスティング記事...
Markus and Eben Sadie at Berry Bros April 2026
無料で読める記事 この記事の別バージョンはフィナンシャル・タイムズにも掲載されている。 パラディウスのヴァーティカル・テイスティングも参照のこと...
Sam Neill
無料で読める記事 ジャンシスが、これまで出会った中で最も魅力的なワイン生産者を偲ぶ。写真上は、自身のトゥー・パドックスのブドウ畑にいるニール。...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Luis Pato Vinha Formal.jpg
テイスティング記事 ヴィーニョ・ヴェルデからアルガルヴェまで、ドウロ、バイラーダ、ダン、テージョ、アレンテージョを経由した素晴らしいワイン...
Dugladze amber Rkatsiteli, walnuts and shoti, bread cooked on the inside of an oven
テイスティング記事 この記事はAIによる翻訳を日本語話者によって検証・編集したものです。(監修:小原陽子) ジャンシスがこの個性的なワインに飛び込む...
The Crest Vineyard, terroir of Moutou
今週のワイン ドメーヌ・ラファージュのムトゥ(Moutou)はコート・カタラン(Côtes Catalanes)産で、美味しいだけでなく...
Penfolds Magill Estate chimney and vines
テイスティング記事 ペンフォールズの世界では大柄な赤ワインが依然として主流だが、変化の兆しが見えている。写真上はペンフォールズのマギル・エステート。...
Boscareto vineyard in the snow
テイスティング記事 ウォルターによる、このアクセスしやすいヴィンテージに関するレポートの後編。今回は、カスティリオーネ・ファッレット、モンフォルテ・ダルバ...
Barale estate and vineyards
テイスティング記事 困難なヴィンテージに関する最終報告。驚くほどフレッシュでアクセスしやすいワインに仕上がっている。本日は、複数の村のワインと、ケラスコ...
Valle de Guadalupe vineyards
現地詳報 メキシコのワイン産業は気候変動への対処法について教訓を与えてくれる、とメキシコを拠点とするジャーナリスト兼ソムリエのカルロス・ボルボア...
Richard Hemming and Hiromi Ohno outside Sushi Oono
Vinomakase リチャードの新連載「Vinomakase」では、専門家たちがワインと日本料理をどのようにマッチングさせているかを探る。第1回は...
JancisRobinson.comニュースレター
最新のワインニュースやトレンドを毎週メールでお届けします。
JancisRobinson.comでは、ニュースレターを無料配信しています。ワインに関する最新情報をいち早くお届けします。
なお、ご登録いただいた個人情報は、ニュースレターの配信以外の目的で利用したり、第三者に提供したりすることはありません。プライバシーポリシーおよび利用規約が適用されます.