Bordeaux 2004 at 10 years – the first growths

Mid garnet with soft bricky rim. Distinctively but softly spicy. Fresh and cedary on the nose with notes of sweet autumn leaves. Tannins dry and on the chalky side, giving a slightly blocky finish. Moreish and satisfying. (JH)

Deep brick-tinged garnet. Gentle and complex aromas that are hard to describe discretely. Overall there's a slightly leafy note but there's a lovely warm, spicy sweetness, a little earthy and still a trace of red fruits. More austere on the palate than I expected. Refined and refreshing. The tannins quite dry at the very end. (JH)

Dark greyish crimson. More autumn leaves than on the two Pessacs just tasted, more developed Merlot character at the very beginning yet still, amazingly, there's a primary sweet cherry aroma. Overriding impression is fruit purity and clarity. Maybe just a hint of smoky liquorice. Rich and deeply fruited, firm, juicy, caressingly gentle and so persistent with impressive freshness. (JH)

Dark ruby. First impression is mocha, and toast, becoming more savoury and tobacco leaf with air. A bit lean in the middle, very fresh, tannins feel quite tight, dry and a bit furry, the finish also rather tied up by those tannins, which are dry at the very end. Really not sure how this is going to age – the tannins seem to need more time but the fruit is already a bit slight on the mid palate. (JH)

Deep rich crimson with a soft bricky rim. Intense leafy freshness. Cedar but there's also a deep, sweet intensity of fruit still at the core. More savoury on the palate but full of energy and life. Finesse in the tannins and a lively note of spice as it opens. Firm, velvety tannins. Satisfying and suave and complete. (JH)

Deep garnet. Marked and attractive herbaceous freshness on the nose. Even a touch of capsicum. Very little tertiary character showing. Similar on the palate, really quite cedary and herbaceous – not unripe but quite the opposite of super-ripe. But all this adds up to great freshness, tannins that are fine and dry, and a long, dry yet rather gentle persistence. (JH)

Deep garnet and so utterly different from the Lafite – richer and sweeter and spicier, including the sweetness of chocolate and mocha. Utterly seductive aroma still showing the outline of cassis. Rich and velvety on the palate, too. Such a contrast to the Lafite – and more upfront. The finish is gentle and persistent even though the tannins are still al dente at the end. (JH)

Deep garnet. Showing the more meaty character of developing Merlot. Meaty but sweet fruited and still with the shadow of dark fruit. Just a hint of cedary freshness on the nose. Very firm, chewy tannins, still quite a way to go for the tannins to become less thick and constraining. There's a kick of freshness at the end with everything in place for a good life ahead. (JH)

Deep, soft-edged garnet. Gorgeously complex and seductive aroma – perfumed, multilayered and even a little exotic in its spice, a touch of orange. Even with all that seduction, there's a breath of fresh air and energy. Soft, fresh and elegant. Fabulous harmony and delicacy on the palate – less intense than I expected from the nose but there is great persistence. Super smooth, gently fresh and finely aromatic. (JH)

Remarkably red-fruited still on the nose with just a little bit of exotic spice and sweetness: the epitome of luxury and decadence yet it also smells so youthful and vibrant. Firm and dry on the palate, less yielding than I expected from the aroma. Much more tertiary character – undergrowth. Chewy finish but it's warm and satisfying and still has a way to go. (JH)