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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More restaurant reviews

John Dory on squid ink risotto at Crabshakk, Glasgow
Nick on restaurants This review appears as a matter of record only. The restaurants described are, sadly, closed until further notice. On our...
Interior of Gymkhana Indian restaurant in Mayfair, London
Nick on restaurants Two of London's finest Indian restaurants are now flourishing – or at least they were PC (pre coronavirus). A version...
Michel Roux Sr
Free for all 16 March 2020 Ben Howkins, UK wine-trade veteran and author of books on port and, most recently, sherry, adds his...
The historic Gordon Building on First Street, Napa, California
Nick on restaurants The city that wine and flood-defences transformed. In a striking demonstration of how the city of Napa has changed over...
Sake cups at Single Thread restaurant, Healdsburg, Sonoma, California
Nick on restaurants Nick falls for one of Sonoma's most famous restaurants. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times...
Rabbit rice dish at Bianchi winery, Mendoza
Nick on restaurants How do winery owners put wine together with its most congenial partner? I can still vividly recall my first meal...
Tuna dish at Ampeli, London
Nick on restaurants A brave new Greek restaurant in Charlotte Street – very unlike the old White Tower. A version of this article...
Ferran Adria in his Barcelona studio
Nick on restaurants Nick meets Spain's culinary hero. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. I have known Ferran...
Theo Kyriakou & Wade Munford at The Melusine restaurant in London
Nick on restaurants A new restaurant in old hands by Tower Bridge in London. The origins of chef Theodore Kyriakou’s passion for sourcing...
Interior of Sunda Asian restaurant in Melbourne, Australia
Nick on restaurants Sunda, a recently opened restaurant in Melbourne’s Chinatown, astonished Nick for several reasons. A version of this article is published...
Dishes at Sesamo restaurant in teh Royal Mansour Hotel, Marrakech
Nick on restaurants Nick discovers the special challenges of operating a European restaurant in an Islamic country. The Alajmo brothers Raffaele and Massimiliano...
Comptoir Robuchon truffled ravioli
Nick on restaurants A version of this article about a new opening in London is published by the Financial Times. The first time...
Abdul the plongeur at the Quality Chop House
Nick on restaurants London is awash with hotel building sites. But who is going to work in them in post-Brexit Britain? The latest...
Daniel Humm of Davies & Brook restaurant in Claridge's, London
Nick on restaurants London's most keenly anticipated restaurant opening. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. The recent opening...
Ksara and Chivite - badly packaged bottles
Nick on restaurants Nick, Unpacker in Chief, gets cross about how these bottles were packaged. It’s that time of the year again, the...
Smoked eel at Zoldering restaurant in Amsterdam
Nick on restaurants Nick goes to Old Amsterdam and breaks a rule of restaurant reviewing. A version of this article is published by...
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