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Restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us, with occasional contributions from other food-obsessed members of the JancisRobinson.com team. 

Restaurant reviews

Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants Alta, an oasis of calm – for now

A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street and Carnaby Street in London’s West End; ignore the charms...

More restaurant reviews

Clockwise from top left: Agustín Trapero, Aldo Sohm, Colm McCan and James Fryer
Nick on restaurants Nick asks four sommeliers to describe their pandemic-affected 2020 and to recommend two wine discoveries of the year. Clockwise above...
Interior of Barrafina tapas bar in London
Nick on restaurants Restaurateurs in London, New York and Paris share the trials and tribulations of how the pandemic has affected the hospitality...
Menus by Catherine Heath
Nick on restaurants … but Nick still loves them. Menus above are pictured by Catherine Heath via Unsplash. 2020 has undoubtedly been a...
Some food books entered for the Andre Simon Awards 2020
Nick on restaurants Nick highlights a particularly wide-ranging new book about one important fish. For the past couple of months, in addition to...
Nick Lander and Martin Lam
Nick on restaurants Restaurant managers have one final task every evening … A version of this article is published by the Financial Times...
Chez Bruce restaurant in Wandsworth, south London
Nick on restaurants Restaurants are about much more than food and wine. Though you wouldn't know it from this picture of an empty...
Locked down Granary Square Brasserie, 6 November 2020
Nick on restaurants Nick looks at the implications for the hospitality industry. There are even barriers now in front of the Granary Square...
Paperback version of On The Menu
Nick on restaurants Nick’s first two articles published in the first few days of JancisRobinson.com back in late 2000. Plus his new book...
Michel Troisgros in October 2020, with mask
Nick on restaurants Two weeks in France left Nick open-mouthed in admiration of the French. Why do eating habits vary so enormously from...
Anna Haugh of Myrtles restaurant
Nick on restaurants A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. It was 3.30 in the afternoon and I was...
Epicerie goods at Tonton restaurant in Beaune
Nick on restaurants Nick reports from last week in Burgundy. I volunteered for the task, but then who wouldn’t? The task itself was...
Eat Out to Help Out logo
Nick on restaurants Nick calls time on the current curfew on UK hospitality. On 20 June, I wrote: '[The wealthy restaurateur and club...
The beach at Seasalter, Kent
Nick on restaurants Following in the footsteps of Richard's canter through 20 years of fine wine writing to mark our forthcoming 20th anniversary...
Chef Henry Harris
Nick on restaurants Nick highlights the subtle changes you may not even notice at your local restaurant. A version of this article is...
Langoustines in the Languedoc
Nick on restaurants Something fishy for a change. This summer I lost my fear of langoustines. I was never actually afraid of ordering...
Auberge de Bardigues on a Monday
Nick on restaurants My picture is of the Auberge de Bardigues in south-west France on a Monday in August. The day before, it...
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