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由于对雷司令 (Riesling) 的关注和赞誉,即使是经验丰富的读者也容易忘记德国总种植面积的76%完全属于"非雷司令"类别。事实上,在上个月VDP年度品鉴会上展示的462款特级园 (Grosse Gewächse, GG) 葡萄酒中,只有16%是雷司令。其余388款是西万尼 (Silvaner)、白皮诺 (Weissburgunder)、灰皮诺 (Grauburgunder)、霞多丽 (Chardonnay)、早黑皮诺 (Frühburgunder)...