Bernkasteler Doctor back to 1921

If there were such a thing as a hall of fame of German vineyards, the Bernkasteler Doctor would be top of the list, no doubt. Location, aspect and terroir of the site together with the Riesling grape all deliver powerful arguments as to why it might find itself in that lofty position.

At times there have been mutterings of discontent from critics that the views of and from the vineyard rising steeply behind the town of Bernkastel were more spectacular than the wines themselves, but these would have been provoked more by frustration with a sometimes unfilled potential rather than...