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这 108 篇品鉴笔记按生产商(姓)字母顺序分组,在每个组内按白酒在前、红酒在后的顺序排列,从普通级到村庄级、一级园和特级园依次递增。
安克洛酒庄 (Domaine de L'Enclos)(夏布利 (Chablis))
Unoaked, 9 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
A suggestion of smoky reduction. More flinty as it opens. Firm, chewy lees texture. More intensity than on the Vrignaud Chablis. Bracingly fresh and with good length. (JH)
Unoaked, 13–14 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
Piercing, green-fruited aroma, really aromatic. More stony/mineral on the palate. Excellent creamy depths here to balance the freshness. (JH)
50% finished fermenting in barrel, mostly older and bigger oak. Certified organic and vegan.
Smells a little riper and richer than the Beauroy, more citrus, just a touch flinty. Inviting. Chewy, leesy grip on the palate with terrific depth and freshness combined. Notable concentration for 2023. (JH)
Certified organic and vegan.
Limey citrus with a touch of linden leaf. A very, very slight hint of struck match but the fragrant fruit dominates. Creamy lees richness and piercing finish. (JH)
This is a separate Fourchaume cuvée from their oldest vines, planted in 1952. Certified organic and vegan.
Seems more concentrated and perhaps more marked by oak spice and oatmeal. Incredibly creamy in the mouth. Mouth-coating richness but it's beautifully cut through by the acidity. Intense for this vintage and full of energy. Definitely grand cru level. GV (JH)
50% finished fermenting in barrel. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
Intensely aromatic: spicy citrus and fresh pears. Generous and creamy, rounded – so much so that it seems almost gentle. Excellent depth and length, if not as dramatic as the Fourchaume Dédé. (JH)
50% finished fermenting in barrel. Recently bottled. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
That same spicy overlay as on the Vaudésir, with an impression of crushed rocks as well as piercing citrus. Rounded, spicy, creamy with a seam of freshness to a long finish. (JH)