Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2023 – E–F

Monday 27 January 2025 • 7 min read
Erwan and Eve Faiveley

The sixth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Erwan and Eve Faiveley, above, were photographed by Jon Wyand. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.

These 108 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.

Domaine de L’Enclos (Chablis)

White

Unoaked, 9 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
A suggestion of smoky reduction. More flinty as it opens. Firm, chewy lees texture. More intensity than on the Vrignaud Chablis. Bracingly fresh and with good length. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £33.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

Unoaked, 13–14 months on lees. Certified organic and vegan.
Piercing, green-fruited aroma, really aromatic. More stony/mineral on the palate. Excellent creamy depths here to balance the freshness. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2031
Price: £46.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

50% finished fermenting in barrel, mostly older and bigger oak. Certified organic and vegan.
Smells a little riper and richer than the Beauroy, more citrus, just a touch flinty. Inviting. Chewy, leesy grip on the palate with terrific depth and freshness combined. Notable concentration for 2023. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2033
Price: £49.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

Certified organic and vegan.
Limey citrus with a touch of linden leaf. A very, very slight hint of struck match but the fragrant fruit dominates. Creamy lees richness and piercing finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2027 – 2035
Price: £57.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

This is a separate Fourchaume cuvée from their oldest vines, planted in 1952. Certified organic and vegan.
Seems more concentrated and perhaps more marked by oak spice and oatmeal. Incredibly creamy in the mouth. Mouth-coating richness but it's beautifully cut through by the acidity. Intense for this vintage and full of energy. Definitely grand cru level. GV (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2028 – 2038
Price: £69.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

50% finished fermenting in barrel. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
Intensely aromatic: spicy citrus and fresh pears. Generous and creamy, rounded – so much so that it seems almost gentle. Excellent depth and length, if not as dramatic as the Fourchaume Dédé. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2028 – 2038
Price: £92.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

50% finished fermenting in barrel. Recently bottled. Younger but bigger barrels for the grands crus. Certified organic and vegan.
That same spicy overlay as on the Vaudésir, with an impression of crushed rocks as well as piercing citrus. Rounded, spicy, creamy with a seam of freshness to a long finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2028 – 2038
Price: £117.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Red

Mid garnet. Light but pure nose. Hint of cassis! No shortage of fruit. GV? (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2039
Price: £345 per case of 12 ib Handford Wines
Red

Rich fruit and signature purity. Fine tannins lurking in the background but overall a satisfying wine. Should open out in bottle. Long. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2045
Price: £675 per case of 12 ib Handford Wines
Red

Mid garnet. Rich and layered and really rather majestic with lots of tannin – more than most in this vintage. Needs time but it’s promising. (JR)

Drink: 2033 – 2047
Price: £645 per case of 6 ib Handford Wines

Jane Eyre (Cissey)

Matthew writes  It was a pleasure...

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