Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Brunello 2017 – M to Z

Tuesday 1 March 2022
Twilight at La Gerla

The second half of Walter's tasting notes on a vintage that belies its reputation. See Brunello 2017 – A to L and his overview in Brunello 2017 – a hot vintage that tastes cool. Above, twilight at La Gerla.

Tasting notes on 88 Brunello 2017s are followed by those on a few late-release 2016s. They are ordered alphabetically by producer (sur)name but you can change this.

2017 Brunello di Montalcino

Red

Just mid ruby. Balsamic nose that holds back on the fruit. Supple fruit mixed with sticky, powdery tannins. Still a little closed on the finish, but otherwise ready to go. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous ruby. Savoury and balsamic and still a little subdued on the nose. Generous is the keyword with soft, concentrated fruit on the palate. Long and with bags of fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Brisk, almost piercing cherry nose with the merest hint of cumin. The supple, round fruit on the palate is a real contrast to the nose. Plenty of depth and succulent acidity all tied-in by powdery tannins. Great aromatic length and with a medium- rather than full-bodied weight on the palate. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Red

Mid ruby. At first a tiny bit chalky and with a hint of gingerbread on the nose, then opens up to perfumed, sweet cherry with minerally, stony notes. Concentrated and mouth-filling cherry fruit with formidable tannins. Bold structure that befits the gorgeous fruit. Not ready yet. (WS)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Red

Youthful mid ruby. Cherry fruit nose with a hint of exotic spice. Elegant, perfumed sour-cherry fruit on the palate framed by long, coating tannins. Very long and fragrant, and a little exotic. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Red

Developed-looking ruby. Balsamic cherry fruit on the nose and juicy cherry fruit on the palate. It doesn't make big waves complexity-wise, but it is long and with a surprising amount of acidity on the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. At first a bit grubby and reductive on the nose. Soft, round cherry fruit pulled up by lots of acidity. Just escapes from being sour. Very long, though. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby. Closed and savoury and perhaps a little reductive, but with brooding intensity underneath. Ripe, juicy cherry fruit on the palate and long, beautifully integrated tannins. A delicious mouthful of juicy fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. A lifted balsamic nose with savoury meaty notes and already a little developed. Sappy cherry fruit that lacks a little in depth and makes the finish look more tannic than it is. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. A tad herbal and reductive on the nose. Compact and well stitched together on the palate. Bags of ripe fruit, juicy acidity and long coating tannins on the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby. A little numb on the nose with only some sweet-savoury hints. Juicy fruit that is elegant rather than concentrated, but lacks a little oomph and complexity to really convince. Drink now. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2024
Red

Just mid ruby with bricky rim. Firm but progressed fruit nose with sweet hints possibly from new oak. In spite of its development it is quite alluring. Juicy cherry palate with prominent chewy tannins but the whole does hit the balance, if only just. Needs to be drunk pretty soon. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2024
Red

Just mid ruby. Pronounced, sweet-spice nose. Brooding fruit underneath chewy tannins. Elegant constitution and with just enough fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. A deep nose that is still a little closed and with only a hint of exotic spice. Concentrated and ripe fruit kept in check by attractive, chewy tannins. Very long, generous and well balanced. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Mid ruby. A little closed and brooding on the nose and predominantly showing notes of sweet spice. Supple fruit palate that is not yet open and with a layer of slightly drying tannins. A tiny bit austere, but might improve with a bit more age? (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby. Focused, pure cherry nose with a peppery tingle and concentrated cherry fruit on the nose. Plenty of cherry fruit on the palate and completely dry and with firm tannins. I would give this more time in bottle. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. A tad oxidised on the nose with hints of browning apple. Supple maraschino-cherry fruit on the palate, but overall a little dull. Two samples tasted. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2023
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. A tad closed on the nose with only the suggestion of gingerbread and with minerally, stony hints. Pure concentrated, cherry fruit with an exotic spice edge. Long and supple and with lots of acidity adding energy to the concentrated fruit. Great length, too and can already be approached. A hedonistic wine. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Red

Just mid ruby. Balsamic nose with a suggestion of minerals and gingerbread. Supple cherry fruit and bags of fine tannins. Elegant and with an impressive, layered finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby with narrow, bricky rim. Ripe cherry nose with a peppery lift. Ripe and supple palate with good depth of fruit – something this vintage often lacks. Juicy, long, gripping and well balanced. An attractive wine. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous and just mid ruby. Lifted balsamic nose and soft, generous fruit on the palate with grainy tannins on the finish. Could be a little edgier but is bound to please many. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Just mid ruby. Interesting, sweetly perfumed cherry and rhubarb nose. Sour-cherry and rhubarb palate with bitter-sweet tannins. Elegant rather than powerful and perhaps a little underwhelming for a Brunello. Ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Deep rich nose that is still a little brooding and with a suggestion of oak and tobacco leaf. Supple, rich but not overtly sweet fruit, but certainly mouth-filling. Plenty of acidity and soft, grainy tannins. Not the most complex, but ticks all the boxes. (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Brooding nose with a clear, minerally edge. Very embryonic right now. A tight palate with a rich layer of tannins and subtle, juicy acidity. Firmly structured, yet finely balanced. This will need more time. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2032
Red

Just mid ruby. Gentle, deep cherry fruit nose with hints of gingerbread. Same gentle fruit impression on the palate, round and without edges and with well-behaved tannins on a long round finish. Completely ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Mid to deep ruby with bricky rim. Savoury-sweet, developed fruit with a minty edge. Soft, round and plentiful on the palate, but at the same time it can't shake off the impression that it is older than it is. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2024
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Balsamic, lifted nose that is still a little closed. Succulent cherry fruit underpinned by persistent, but not harsh tannins. Very long and focused. (WS)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Red

Maturing mid ruby. A spice-laden nose with cherry-liqueur notes underneath. Rich, mellow but not sweet cherry fruit on the palate. Supple, long finish with tannic bite. Completely ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Just mid ruby with broad bricky rim. Sweet nose with hints of stalks. Supple, ripe cherry fruit palate lined with chewy tannins. Long and fragrant. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Firm cherry fruit that is a little lifted. Great depth of fruit on the nose. Sappy, fragrant cherry fruit on the palate. Fresh and with lots of powdery tannins. Might have done with a little more concentration, but overall satisfying. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Youthful mid ruby. At first a little reductive/grubby on the nose. Rich and still a little backward on the palate with lots of chewy tannins. Needs a little more time in the bottle. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2029
Red

Mid to deep ruby with bright orange tinges. Camphor, cigar box and cherry with a hint of cinnamon bun. Succulent cherry fruit and firm tannins. Easy-going and generous and ready now, even if the tannins are a tiny bit tough on the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Mid ruby. Cherry fruit nose with top notes of spice. Fragrant cherry fruit with an elegant palate weight and crunchy tannins. No enormous concentration or power, but really charming and well balanced. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Just mid ruby that is already looking a little developed. Brooding concentration on the nose with hints of iron and tobacco leaf and what looks like a tiny bit of new oak. Perfumed marasca-cherry palate of considerable length but with quite demanding tannins, which hopefully will soften with time. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby. Signs of ripe fruit with notes of gingerbread on the nose and a rather light cherry fruit palate with plenty of acidity. Very slow to show its true colours right now as it seems so light. Ideally I would have liked to see more fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. A concentrated but reserved nose hinting at sweet fruit. Compact and youthful sweet fruit with grainy tannins. Firm but not overpowering structure. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. A tiny bit grubby and reductive at first. Concentrated if a little austere on the palate. Long but not entirely open yet. Approachable, though. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. A little herbal and chalky at first. Green pea. Soft cherry fruit palate with rustic tannins and with considerable length. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2024
Red

Mid ruby with narrow orange rim. A little closed with only the merest hint of fruit cake rising from the glass. Supple fruit that is quite forward, generous and long. A nice tannic grip on the finish pulls it into shape. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Juts mid ruby with bricky rim. Cigar box, tobacco leaf and notes of cherry compote. Supple palate that is a tad light on the fruit. Creamy notes flash up on the finish. Plenty of tannins that however manage to not overpower the light fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Deep, pure on the nose and with concentrated and ripe cherry fruit on the palate. Firm tannins and long and generous. Can be approached now but the tannins demand a little more age. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2032
Red

Lustrous deep ruby. Firm, deep cherry fruit on the nose and with an undertow of savoury spice. Lots of perfumed sour-cherry fruit on the palate and with bags of firm, but polished tannins on the finish. A bit austere right now, but with great length as well as potential. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2032
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Lifted, concentrated and balsamic sour-cherry nose. Elegant, fresh and pure and with just enough stuffing on the palate to balance the bags of powdery long-lasting, tannins that right now are a little challenging. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby. Lifted sour-cherry nose with hints of spice. Easy-going cherry and strawberry fruit that is not hugely complex but more than compensates for that with a long fruit-driven finish. Ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Just mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Soft, ripe maraschino nose and sweet cherry fruit on the palate. It's juicy and open-knit and a little simple, but certainly long. For immediate drinking. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Rich cherry and iron nose. Rich sour cherry and chewy tannins on the palate. It is long, but the tannins become a little dominant on the fragrant finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Savoury, minerally rather than fruity on the nose and with sweet, spicy hints. Plentiful, open-knit sour-cherry fruit on the palate. Straightforward, long and concentrated. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby. Iron and stalks on the nose and without a lot of fruit right now. Fragrant and quite light palate with plenty of acidity and chewy tannins. Good length but lacks a little in weight to really convince. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Rich nose with top notes of sweet baking spice. Ripe and generous cherry fruit palate that is not the most complex and with ripe tannins adding grip on the ripe fruit finish. Can be approached now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby. Stalky and savoury rather than fruity on the nose, but becoming sweeter with aeration. Ripe, round fruit with a layer of ripe, chewy tannins. Long and accessible, but could perhaps be a little more complex. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby. Balsamic and sweetly perfumed on the nose. Brooding and shy on the palate and slow to unfurl. The fruit remains a little hidden, but showing plenty of length. A proper dose of acidity and a layer of firm grainy tannins dominate a little, but the long fragrance on the finish bodes well for the future. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Ripe cherry fruit with a tiny hint of vanilla. Generous and juicy and with no apparent oak on the palate. Long and lush and with a soft, tannic bite. Great balance. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. A concentrated, earthy cherry nose that is almost a little rich with savoury, minerally, meaty notes. Lush cherry fruit with a full aromatic spread on the palate with tons of chewy tannins. Long and with lots of stuffing. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Lifted, sweet cassis and cherry nose. Exotically fragrant perfumed fruit on the palate which builds up on the finish. Striking and certainly unusual and with cracking tannins. Needs time to settle. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2032
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. Dark and spicy rather than fruity on the nose. With aeration shy cherry turns up in the glass. More energetic on the palate with marasca cherry but with quite stubborn tannins. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. A soft nose that is a little herbal at first and with hints of liquorice powder. Bright, sour-cherry fruit palate with the grainy tannins building a unity. The acidity is quite formidable, and quite a contrast to the mature nose. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. A little vegetal/reductive on the nose. Soft fruit on the palate. A good dose of acidity carrying the fragrant fruit while chewy tannins add bite. Quite a light style. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid to deep lustrous ruby. A little brooding on the nose and with the fruit struggling to come out. Just a suggestion of sweet, candied oak. Juicy and still-compact cherry fruit on the palate with lots of chewy tannins. Has potential. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby. Dusty and a little chalky on the nose and a tiny bit vegetal, but may be reduction? On the palate the fruit is round but a little dull and lacks the energy to stand up to the thick layer of grainy tannins. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. A cherry nose that is a little chalky/herbal. Slow but fragrant on the palate with polished, chewy tannins. Chalky (minerally?) hints on the finish. Not easy to see where this is going right now, but certainly intriguing. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Just mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Quite vegetal on the nose but with a sweet undertow. Cranberry and raspberry fruit on the palate. Fragrant and elegant but could do with a tad more concentration. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2025
Red

Just mid ruby and with the beginning of orange tinges. Savoury, herbal and sweet at the same time, and with brooding fruit. Sappy generous cherry fruit palate while a rich layer of powdery tannins takes over on the finish, but I can see this improving with a little more age. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Brooding richness on the nose and sappy concentrated cherry fruit on the palate with bags of chewy tannins. Not the most complex, but nevertheless satisfying. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Palish mid ruby. A backward nose with only hints of minerals and a suggestion of gingerbread. Ripe, deep fruit palate that still needs to unfurl and with fine but firm tannins. Lots of juice on the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Red

Just mid ruby. A little closed but pure on the nose. Elegant cherry and raspberry palate with long, sandy tannins. Suave, elegant and ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. Herbal rather than fruit-driven on the nose and a little closed. Needs lots of aeration. Hint of cigar box that repeats itself on the palate, but really poised. Long generous fruit and fine tannins. Looks a bit older than it is, but right now very attractive. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby. Generous nose with hints of oak, malt and cherry. Deep and lush and with vibrant acidity and polished grainy tannins streamlining the whole. Captivating. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Healthy-looking mid ruby. A little brooding on the nose with a hint of cinnamon bark. Ripe and with reasonable depth of fruit on the palate. Tannic grip on the finish but without overpowering the fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Lustrous and just mid ruby. A little closed on the nose and a little brooding. Aromatic marasca-cherry palate with lots of acidity, but the fruit holds up, if only just. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby. A tiny bit grubby/reductive on the nose and with hints of malt bread. Plenty of sweet, ripe fruit on the palate and with a good dose of acidity giving it lift. Long and with chewy tannins following the fruit on the finish. Still a little youthful. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby. Subdued but brooding nose with hints of cherry liqueur. Focused, deep cherry fruit streamlined by juicy acidity on the palate and framed by lots of stalky tannins. Good balance and length. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. Sweet and a little stalky on the nose and already showing a little development. Hints of iron. Sappy cherry fruit that loses a little in intensity on the finish. Quite a bit of stubborn tannins. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Deep maturing ruby with bright bricky rim. Alluring deep and ripe nose with a hint of cinnamon bark and a suggestion of apple peel and just skirting premox. Juicy cherry with gripping but not overpowering tannins. Plenty of acidity contrasting the ripe fruit and quite a bit of grainy tannins. Old school in a good way. Ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing ruby with orange tinges. Concentrated cherry fruit on the nose with top notes of gingerbread. Generous, supple and ripe, if without a lot of nuance. Long, though. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing and just mid ruby. Brooding concentration on the nose and with hints of sweet baking spice. A core of ripe cherry fruit wrapped around slightly puckering tannins. Overall a little simple. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. Mature on the nose if a little closed and mature fruit on the palate. Much less acidity than many other Brunellos from this vintage, so perhaps this is a really honest, uncorrected rendition? Supple fruit with a hint of gingerbread but lively. Ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Grapes apparently come from the Montosoli cru, so I don't understand why anyone wouldn't want to mention this important cru on the label…
Just mid ruby with orange tinges. An aromatic spice and marasca-cherry nose that is already quite open. Sappy cherry fruit with quite a big charge of tannins which dominate the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow bricky rim. A nose that is a little stalky, possibly caused by reduction. Subdued yet ripe fruit notes. Juicy fruit on the palate with bags of chewy tannins, but which could do with a little more fruit concentration. Long cherry-scented finish. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby and already looking a little developed. Savoury nose with the first signs of development. Not super-expressive and with hints of tobacco. The palate is round but lacks in genuine fruit flavours. Powdery tannins on the finish make their mark. Ready now and I wouldn't hang on to it. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Maturing mid ruby. A tiny bit vegetal on the nose first, then opens up to cherry liqueur. Sweet-sour cherry palate underpinned by chewy tannins. Quite straightforward but not lacking focus. Can be approached now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Red

Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. A cherry and spice nose that is a little rich and a tiny bit herbal at the same time. Bags of ripe cherry fruit on the palate with ripe acidity and coating tannins. Concentrated but slightly simple for a Brunello. Ready now. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Big nose of rich fruit and with notes of Moroccan leather and tar. Supple, intense fruit contrasted by brisk acidity. A little unbalanced. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. A little austere on the nose with hints of iron. Soft fruit lined with lots of acidity. Not enormously challenging. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Lifted cherry nose with a hint of spice. Concentrated and supple with plenty of ripe cherry fruit on the finish and gravelly tannins. Long, and ready now but with some potential. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Lustrous mid ruby. Firm cherry nose with notes reminiscent of oak. Just a hint of gingerbread, but the whole is vital. Focused cherry fruit with somewhat firm, slightly drying tannins. A little embryonic and in need of more bottle age. (WS)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Red

Lustrous mid to deep ruby. Lifted, concentrated cherry nose showing more and more depth with aeration. Raspberry coulis and sour cherry on the palate with gorgeous chewy tannins and brisk acidity streamlining the fruit. Long, fragrant finish. (WS)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Red

Healthy and just mid ruby. Attractive cherry and pine nose. Supple cherry palate with finely grained tannins. A good mouthful of fruit. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Red

Just mid ruby with bricky tinges. Balsamic, ripe cherry fruit with a hint of malt bread. Supple and sour-cherry palate with soft tannins. A little simple, if long. (WS)

Drink: 2022 – 2026

Late-release 2016 Brunello di Montalcino

Red

Developing mid ruby. Brooding and intense on the nose with hints of graphite and filled out by oak. Full mouth of juicy, spicy cherry fruit framed by bags of delicious, chewy tannins. Very long and deep and gorgeously balanced. Tactile fireworks. Ready now but will hold. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2034
Red

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Ripe cherry nose with sweet, spicy oak notes. Supple, focused and ripe and with a long, sweet cherry fragrance on the finish. Elegant rather than powerful and with a layer of fine, long tannins. (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2022 – 2030
Red

Balsamic, subtly perfumed nose with a hint of eucalyptus. Vibrant, crushed red-fruit palate that is super-elegant. Long, grainy tannins. Vibrant and with lots of filigree acidity. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2036
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Wines of the week 一款温暖你冬日的桃红酒, 起价 £17.30,$19.99。上图为苏塞斯酒庄的阿尔伯特·卡内拉 (Albert Canela) 和玛丽奥娜...
View from Le Ripi towards Monte Amiata
Inside information 布鲁内洛农民在 2025 年从未知道大自然会给他们带来什么。然而他们以某种方式应对了,甚至声称这个年份比 2024 年更好。上图是从勒里皮...
AdVL Smart Traveller's Guides covers
Book reviews 六本精美的指南,为想要获得实地建议的葡萄酒爱好者提供关于在哪里喝什么和吃什么的信息。 智慧旅行者葡萄酒指南 波尔多,作者 乔治·欣德尔...
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