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Burgundy 2016 – H–K

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See the full guide to our coverage of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. 

MARK HAISMA, Gilly-les-Cîteaux 
JR: ‘I was at the bottom of the heap’, says Mark (pictured above) in his extensive new modern premises in Gilly, two buildings down from Laurent Ponsot’s personal new outfit. He is commenting on his status in the pecking order when trying to buy 2016s for his négociant business, but claims ‘they have been falling over themselves to offer me 2017s’.

White

Half tank and half oak. Hautes-Côtes and Côte de Nuits (Marsannay).
Rather ripe for an Aligoté. Lemon and pears. Really ripe. Good texture.

Drink: 2018 – 2019
White

Four barrels in 2016.
Lively citrus with a good structure and real juiciness. All in wood. Full malo and pretty racy. Not opulent but good crunchy stuff.

Drink: 2019 – 2022
Red

Last vintage. Bright transparent red. Light and fresh. Not that deep-flavoured but very fresh and vibrant. Bitter cherries and well delineated. ‘Pure, bright, energetic and a fine finish’, according to Mark Haisma. ‘Hand-patted cap. I don’t want my winery to smell nice; I want it to smell like a shed’. Clean and brisk.

Drink: 2019 – 2024
Red

One new cask out of eight. Lots of whole bunch, 45-50%. From Croix des Champs east of the RN74 and La Justice. Wrong side of the road, supposedly. But viticulture counters that.
Big and bold with a hint of oak on the end. Sweet and friendly. Chewy finish but it should be a cheerful friend in the medium term. Very bright fruit. Chalky finish.

Drink: 2020 – 2026
Red

Just south of Monts Luisants, high up above the village on the long strip above Clos de la Roche. Thinner soils than a village wine.
Very refined and fresh. Masses of fruit dominates the whole-bunch character (65%) that is a textural thing. Not at all skinny. Lovely stuff.

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Red

He's made this from 2014 onwards. Above right of the village facing south. Just one 350-litre barrel in 2016 (previously six barrels). Proof that post-frost low yields have had a real effect!
Deep ruby colour. Big and gamey. Massive and sweet and no sign of Pommard tannins. Not that dry on the end. Very long. Perfumed.

Drink: 2019 – 2026

MAISON HARBOUR,Savigny-lès-Beaune
EL: North-American husband-and-wife team Colleen and Nick Harbour met in Luxembourg and moved to Savigny together to make wine. 2013 was their first...

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