More than 120 Greek wines tasted in the Peloponnese and in London. This peacock in the grounds of Mercouri estate just north of Pirgos resolutely refused to display his finest, unlike the many local producers I met, who were happy to reveal theirs.
On my first night in the northern Peloponnese earlier this year, just before I started exploring the Slopes of Aigialeia, Angelos Rouvalis gave me the perfect gift: a simple and revealing map.
The orange line he had drawn from Patra, a city on the Gulf of Corinth, south towards Sparti highlights the way mountains divide the...
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