I have been in a rather Oregonian mood recently (look out for my article in the FT and wine news this Saturday). Then yesterday came the terrible news that one of the brightest and best young winemakers there Jimi Brooks, who made wine under his own and Maysara labels, has just died of a heart attack at the age of 38, so an Oregon Pinot Noir seems a particularly appropriate choice for this week.
The trouble with most such wines however is that although they can be agreeably charming, fruity and accessible, they are generally pretty difficult to find outside their native state and almost impossible outside the US – and practically impossible in Britain. And I promised you last week that I would feature a wine that was actually available in the UK.
One of the Oregon producers to have impressed me most in recent years, Lemelson, has come to my aid however. Purple page 2003 subscribers may remember my enthusiasm for Lemelson wines in my tasting notes. The 2001s and 2002s were made by the talented Thomas Bachelder who has since been poached by Boisset to make Pinot in his native Canada. (Owner Eric Lemelson has since recruited Paul Pujol from Kuentz Bas in Alsace.) Within the US Lemelson wines are available mainly direct from the winery at info@lemelsonvineyards.com, tel (503) 852-6619, fax (503) 852-6119 but, amazingly, they are now imported into the UK by no fewer than two wine merchants, John Armit and The Wine Society. Each has taken a slightly different selection from the different bottlings available but both can offer the least expensive Six Vineyards bottling, a blend of the lightest, most approachable fruit from Lemelson’s Stermer, Johnson and Wascher vineyards together with some bought in fruit. Most of the fruit was from 'Dijon' clones (667, 777, 115, 114 and 113 since you ask) together with some Pommard clone Pinot.
At the £9.95 bottle price offered by The Wine Society this is slightly less expensive than the $18 asked for it at the winery. Six Vineyards is a really excellent introduction to Oregon Pinot Noir or, arguably, Pinot Noir in general. It’s not dark – but then Pinot Noir should not be. It is light and pretty and extremely, seductively fruity in a cherry sort of way. Aged in 35 per cent new oak and 65 per cent used, it’s already a great drink, having lots of refreshing acidity and just enough soft tannin on the first to give it structure. Be very careful with the serving temperature of wines like this. Too warm and they will taste muddy and unappetising. In warm weather or hot rooms, give it half an hour in a refrigerator before serving. And on no account decant it. This went into the bottle just as it was meant to come out: super-fresh and fruity. John Armit Wines sell it, like most of their wines, by the unmixed case, at the considerably steeper price of £147 a dozen.
For the record, Lemelson belong to that large group of Oregon wine producers who espouse organic viticulture, but don’t feel the need to be certified organic. I can’t help feeling this must change. Or perhaps they are all such honest Joes who live in each other’s pockets that they police themselves? That’s all very well so sales within the state but I think international customers need proof of good intentions.
