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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants Ballymaloe's charms

An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork, Ireland, to stay the night and to interview the late...

More Nick on restaurants

Nick on restaurants June has always made me feel queasy. It is nothing to do with the weather or London’s ‘social season’ and...
Nick on restaurants During five days of talking, and listening, to numerous restaurant-obsessed New Yorkers as well as many of the city’s restaurateurs...
Nick on restaurants Three days in four of Italy’s most romantic-sounding cities – Padua, Ferrara, Mantua and Cremona – provided more than enough...
Nick on restaurants Over dinner with my wife [that’s me – JR] at Zafferano in London’s Belgravia I confessed that I would soon...
Nick on restaurants As I was leaving Arbutus, the restaurant which has just been opened south of Soho Square in central London by...
Nick on restaurants The 2012 London Olympic and Paralympics may still be more than six years away but judging from a morning spent...
Nick on restaurants The Ambassador , which opened just before Easter, on busy Exmouth Market opposite the long established but still exciting Moro...
Nick on restaurants Halfway through the four-hour marathon that was the 16 th James Beard Foundation Awards on 08 may in the excessively...
Nick on restaurants My colleague Rowley Leigh’s eloquent eulogy to the morel mushroom a fortnight ago prompted me to make yet another call...
Nick on restaurants Surprisingly, one of the most exciting aspects of writing this column does not actually involve eating. Instead it happens whenever...
Nick on restaurants Sommeliers, or wine waiters, are the dark horses of the restaurant world. They can contribute just as much to the...
Nick on restaurants At 62 Ranjit Mathrani is seemingly far too well qualified to be a restaurateur. He holds degrees from Cambridge, Manchester...
Nick on restaurants Benoit, the bistro which has stood seemingly impervious to time and fashion on a pedestrianised street in Paris between the...
Nick on restaurants As we walked into Franco’s, the excellent-value Italian trattoria recently re-invigorated by the Hambro family who own the far more...
Nick on restaurants Fun is not a word that appears regularly enough in restaurant reviews although it is an integral part of what...
Nick on restaurants Maureen Mills eats out in restaurants more times in a week than anyone I have ever met. “It must be...
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