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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants Ballymaloe's charms

An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork, Ireland, to stay the night and to interview the late...

More Nick on restaurants

Nick on restaurants Four new restaurants in a week is more than most restaurant correspondents have the good fortune to get to but...
Nick on restaurants As the polite receptionist at Locanda Locatelli in the West End of London took my booking for lunch in late...
Nick on restaurants While a couple of books, a trip to the British Museum and the internet provided me with enough preliminary information...
Nick on restaurants In June Chris Galvin, then the Executive Chef of the highly successful Wolseley on Piccadilly, invited me to lunch. As...
Nick on restaurants In today’s restaurant world chefs travel as widely as the ingredients they use. But it is unlikely that any have...
Nick on restaurants ‘Stuff happens’, Donald Rumsfeld’s rather imprecise comment on the Iraq War, is also an apt summary of daily life in...
Nick on restaurants The camera, it is said, never lies but I do not believe that television’s current preoccupation with programmes designed to...
Nick on restaurants When I finally caught up with Graeme Wait, he was carrying the tools of his trade, a briefcase and his...
Nick on restaurants Towards the end of his speech at the inaugural British Curry Awards Dinner last week in the crowded ballroom of...
Nick on restaurants This article was also published in the Financial Times. The biggest social change awaiting anyone contemplating a career in restaurants...
Nick on restaurants Last week Silvano Giraldin, the highly respected maitre d’ of Mayfair’s Le Gavroche, made an unprecedented and unusual faux pas...
Nick on restaurants A chance encounter with an old friend, with whom I shared many disappointing school lunches over 40 years ago, took...
Nick on restaurants This article was also published in the Financial Times. On our second visit to San Sebastian this year, this time...
Nick on restaurants If the leading lights of Britain’s restaurant industry, its chefs, restaurateurs and financial backers, had sat down a decade ago...
Nick on restaurants Tracking down the most authentic bouillabaisse, that rich, garlicky fish stew which Marseille has so thoughtfully bequeathed to the world...
Nick on restaurants ‘Impressionism Abroad’, the new exhibition at London’s Royal Academy, will give as much pleasure to the thousands who see it...
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