The Vente aux Hospices is known around the world as the glamorous charity auction each November where the recently harvested vintage is put to a faith test that sets out what the vintage is worth. The Hospices de Beaune – with its sombre, high-gothic Salle des Pôvres and its greatest treasure, a magnificent Roger van der Weyden triptych figure – features on anyone’s visit to the region. The Hospices de Nuits less so.
If I were harsh, I...
