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在托尼·比什 (Tony Bish) 位于霍克斯湾 (Hawke's Bay) 的城市酒庄内,霞多丽 (Chardonnay) 在法国橡木容器中呼吸。混凝土墙上挂着这些橡木来源森林的照片。几十年来,他定期前往那些古老的森林,观察它们的管理,甚至与严格的塔兰索 (Taransaud) 制桶师一起参与挑选单株树木。经过铣削、长达四年的风干,并制作成酒桶、大桶和卵形桶,它们踏上前往新西兰的漫长旅程。当我们品尝这些远道而来的容器中的酒时,他说了一句让我至今难忘的话:"如果我们要认真谈论风土—...