25th anniversary Tokyo tasting | The Jancis Robinson Story | 🎁 20% off gift memberships

Vintage in Bierzo part 4 – processing the fruit

Thursday 27 December 2012 • 4 min read
Image

For the earlier sections of this report by Tanya Garnham, see Part 1 – introducing DJP, Part 2 – waiting and sampling and Part 3 – harvest begins.

Once off the vine, grapes should really be processed as soon as possible so, on 14 September, after a taking a short break from a long day in the vineyard, we were back at the winery at about 8 pm. I had no idea what to expect as, apart from tanks, hoses, ladders and a fork lift, I hadn't really noticed any 'equipment' in the winery. Well, it turned out that no equipment was actually necessary as the grapes are pressed by foot. I honestly thought Ricardo was kidding when he mentioned this – DJP produce just over 300,000 bottles a year after all – but, no, he wasn't, so it was shoes and socks off, a quick hose down of feet and straight into a 15 kg plastic bucket! About 250 kg of grapes later – or what felt like climbing up the stairs of Dubai's Burj Khalifa – we got to what I thought was the last bucketful and I gratefully put my shoes back on.

Ricardo meanwhile had brought in a tiny destemmer from somewhere to process the remaining grapes (as about half are crushed by foot and half are destemmed), but I think it had already clocked off for the weekend as it started to leak and then the crushed berries got stuck in the attached hose (about 10 m long) and had to be forcibly shaken out! It was quite entertaining listening to the usually quiet Ricardo curse the machinery before it was cleaned and put away … and it was back into the bucket again.

The crushed grapes went into two small stainless-steel tanks – and that was the processing done. No additions, no anything. Ricardo wasn't lying when he said that the wines make themselves and he 'just hangs around to assist'. When I asked which type of yeast would start the fermentation, Ricardo said he didn't know and that 'whatever takes over, takes over'. Once fermented, the wine will be tasted to see which wine it goes into – most likely Pétalos.

Grower grapes v DJP grapes

The Bierzo DO is home to 7,000 hectares (ha) of vineyards, of which DJP owns, about 40 ha. This isn't quite enough to make the 300,000 bottles that the company does make, so DJP also buys red grapes from about 125 long-term local growers who, between them, have about 410 parcels of vines. The smallest parcel comprises a grand total of six vines!

Maderas_tanksGrower grapes (plus about 30% DJP grapes) go into Pétalos, which is mainly made at Maderas, an outdoor site housing tanks of varying sizes (these ones are 18,000 litres) and materials amounting to a 150,000-litre capacity.

Growers pick when given the green light (based on lab and taste tests) by DJP. The company provides crates of different sizes (to make getting the net weight of the grapes easier when they come in) so, from about 20 September onwards, there was a steady stream of growers either picking up crates or dropping off grapes.

Occasionally a grower did come in with his own containers – I did see wicker baskets being carried from the back of a car once (perhaps the guy with the six vines?) – but generally everything was highly efficient and the grapes were weighed, destemmed and crushed, and transferred to one of the tanks.

Despite the efficiency, it still seemed positively manic at the beginning because of the quantity of grapes that came in. But then this is the biggest winery I have worked at. The guys at DJP, however, kept telling me that this harvest was a piece of cake in comparison with other years.

I spent most of the time with a shovel or a pitchfork in my hands and, honestly, if I never see either of those two objects again, it will be too soon. The amount of stems and single berries that a destemmer (a much bigger one that actually worked despite several shrieks of protest towards the end of each day) spits out of its bottom end is phenomenal.

Being a relatively tidy person, I tried to clean up. Five hours of pitch forking stems and shoveling berries into the back of a trailer later, the place didn't look any different and every part of my body hurt so I had to admit defeat. The Spaniards thought what I was doing was hilarious and a couple of them even came to watch; one lovely older gentleman took pity on me, though, and gave me a lesson on pitch forking (over one's left shoulder if one is right-handed), not understanding that it isn't really a skill required by many organisations in central London.

If I wasn't pitchforking or shovelling, I was washing crates, and I'd be lying if I DJP_crushing_grapesdidn't admit that it became a bit frustrating after a while. For some reason, I wasn't allowed to 'feed' the destemmer, or sort the berries going into it, or use the forklift or drive the tractor, perhaps because the company wanted me to keep my fingers, etc ...

Back at DJP, similar things were happening but perhaps on a smaller scale. Grapes were coming in from DJP vineyards and were being processed for Pétalos (some of which is also made there) as well as for Corullón, Morcerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona (all of which are made there). On 14 September, the 'recipe' called for about half the grapes to be crushed by foot so Moreira, one of the winery employees, had his shoes and socks off quite frequently (you can just see his arms above the rim of the tank).

See Part 5 tomorrow for the conclusion to Tanya's report.

选择方案
JancisRobinson.com 25th anniversaty logo

This Mother’s Day, give the gift of great wine.

Mothering Sunday is 15 March – and a JancisRobinson.com gift membership is one of the most thoughtful presents you can give a wine lover.

For a limited time, get 20% off all annual gift memberships by entering promo code FORMUM26 at checkout. Offer ends 17 March.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 290,534 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,947 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 290,534 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,947 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 290,534 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,947 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 290,534 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,947 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Lytton Springs vines
Free for all 如果你在寻找个性、独特性和真正的意义,那就选择仙粉黛 (Zin),来自在美国历史另一个时代种植的葡萄藤。本文的简化版本由金融时报发表。...
Ch Ormes de Pez
Free for all 对10年陈酿的2016年份酒款的概述。请参阅关于 右岸红酒和甜白酒以及 左岸红酒的品鉴文章。本文的一个版本由金融时报发表。 另请参阅...
Ferran and JR at Barcelona Wine Week
Free for all 费兰 (Ferran) 和詹西斯 (Jancis) 试图用六杯酒来总结当今西班牙葡萄酒的精彩。本文的简化版本由金融时报 发表。...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all 祝贺最新一批葡萄酒大师,今日由葡萄酒大师学院宣布。 葡萄酒大师学院 (IMW) 今日宣布...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Richard Hemming surrounded by wine bottles ready for tasting
Tasting articles 品鉴了124款葡萄酒,发现了埋藏在澳大利亚西南角远端的各种珍宝。另请参阅 探访大南部地区。 大南部地区的偏远位置,距离珀斯南部四小时车程...
MBT conclusions cover image
Mission Blind Tasting 是时候将所有细节整合起来,尝试确定你杯中的酒款了。 现在你已经学会了如何评估葡萄酒的 外观、 香气和 口感...
El Pacto vineyard
Tasting articles 证明里奥哈仍然是以优秀价格获得成熟葡萄酒的绝佳来源。上图是埃尔·帕克托 (El Pacto) 的葡萄园之一...
Vineyard landscape at West Cape Howe in the Great Southern region
Travel tips 探索西澳大利亚的葡萄酒荒野。明天请回来查看大南部地区葡萄酒的评论。 无论你站在大南部地区的哪个位置,景观都会同心圆般地向远方起伏延展...
Juan Valdelana
Tasting articles 此外还有一系列高品质葡萄酒,这些酒的产量足够大,可以在世界各地找到。上图为博德加斯·巴尔德拉纳酒庄 (Bodegas Valdelana)...
 Juan Carlos Sancha in the Cerro la Isa vineyard with mule
Tasting articles 专注于单一村庄、单一葡萄园和单一品种的里奥哈葡萄酒。上图,胡安·卡洛斯·桑查 (Juan Carlos Sancha)...
Doppo wine list
Nick on restaurants 伦敦苏豪区葡萄酒爱好者的瑰宝。上图显示的只是其庞大酒单的一部分(暂时被偷走了)。 我在迪恩街多波 (Doppo)...
Freixenet winery in Spain
Wine news in 5 还有德国亨克尔 (Henkell) 集团收购传奇卡瓦 (Cava) 公司弗雷斯内特 (Freixenet)(上图...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.