Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

A New Zealand vintage puzzle

Tuesday 31 July 2012 • 1 min read
Image

What vintage is this charming relic found in our linen cupboard, do you think?

Nobilo_tea_towel

Would anyone care to date, in the comments box below, this tea towel designed for New Zealand wine producer Nobilo's when pride of place (top centre) went to a wine described as 'French style red wine' with the marvellous name of Chateau Valley? (It reminds me of the brand Côte de Villages dreamt up by one long-gone UK wine importer to give a burgundian veneer to the most basic wine.) There are no vintages given on the labels above as clues but other notable wines made by the Nobilo family then included 'German style' Müller-Thurgau, an 'Ormond Valley Chardonnay White Burgundy' and a varietal Pinotage described as 'Light Classic Dry Red'.

At least the design was prescient enough to feature Gewürztraminer (accent proudly in place in this instance) top left, the variety to which Nick Nobilo, who sold the family company ages ago and has watched its passage as a small cog in the giant global machine that is Constellation, is now devoted with his Vinoptima label.

The text in the middle assures us 'The wine-making tradition of the Nobilo family began centuries ago on the sunny Adriatic Island of Korcula. Today this tradition is still maintained and is reflected in the superb, quality table wines produced at the Huapai Winery. Share this skill and enjoy the taste of the acclaimed Nobilo's red and white table wines.'

From the late 19th century there was a big influx of Dalmatians to New Zealand, initially in search of gold and then as diggers of buried kauri gum that was much in demand for varnishes and linoleum until synthetic floor coverings appeared from the 1930s. The first incomers were followed by later immigrants, particularly in the years leading up to the second world war, when prospects in Croatia were particularly poor. From the Croatian Adriatic coastline and its many islands (of interest to grape researchers today) they brought a wine culture, even if their wines were initially dismissed as 'Dally plonk'. Today's NZ wine industry still has many a revered Dalmatian name. Not just Nobilo (whose family also produced a famous golfer) but also Babich, Brajkovich (of Kumeu River), Delegat and Fistonich (Sir George, owner of Villa Maria and Vidal).

Nick reminded me that it is part of New Zealand folklore that, were it not for Dalmatian influence, the country might have voted for national prohibition of all alcoholic drink. The first vote, in 1911, had to achieve a 60% vote in favour for it to be carried. The proportion of voters in favour was 55.8%.

So, what date would you put on that tea towel?
 

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 287,564 wine reviews & 15,852 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 287,564 wine reviews & 15,852 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 287,564 wine reviews & 15,852 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 287,564 wine reviews & 15,852 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all Information about UK merchants offering 2024 burgundy en primeur. Above, a pair of ‘brouettes’ for burning prunings, seen in the...
cacao in the wild
Free for all De-alcoholised wine is a poor substitute for the real thing. But there are one or two palatable alternatives. A version...
View from Smith Madrone on Spring Mountain
Free for all Demand, and prices, are falling. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Above, the view from...

More from JancisRobinson.com

La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
São Vicente Madeira vineyards
Tasting articles Wines from this extraordinary Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic, varying from five to 155 years old. The...
The Chase vineyard of Ministry of Clouds
Wines of the week A perfectly ordinary extraordinary wine. From €19.60, £28.33, $19.99 (direct from the US importer, K&L Wines). A few months ago...
flowering Pinot Meunier vine
Tasting articles Once a bit player, Pinot Meunier is increasingly taking a starring role in English wines. Above, a Pinot Meunier vine...
Opus prep at 67
Tasting articles Quite a vertical! In London in November 2025, presented by Opus’s long-standing winemaker. Opus One is the wine world’s seminal...
Doug Tunnell, owner of Brick House Vineyard credit Cheryl Juetten
Tasting articles Save water, drink these wines from the Deep Roots Coalition, a group of producers who eschew irrigation. Among them is...
Rippon vineyard
Tasting articles Twenty-two reasons not to do Dry January. Among them, a Pinot Noir produced by Rippon, from their vineyards on the...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.