Yes, it's not often I choose a red bordeaux as wine of the week, and now three come along. But last week I tasted a range of nearly 50 St-Emilion Grands Crus Classés from this landmark vintage (detailed tasting notes on purple pages soon) and these two wines stood out as quite a bargain. They weren't the most glamorous wines of the tasting but they are far less expensive than Ch Les Grandes Murailles and Clos St Martin. And they are both already charming. The Laroze in fact tastes almost fully developed.
Ch Corbin Michotte is distinguished by not trying to be too big for its boots. It's quite charmingly aromatic and obviously well made to express its provenance rather than any cellar technique. It's not enormous – quite delicate in fact, but is beautifully balanced. I'd ideally keep this appetising wine another three or four years before drinking.
Ch Laroze is rather more obviously modern with its very deep colour and slightly toasty nose but there's something very attractive about this wine with its come-on flavours reminiscent of Earl Grey tea. It is almost worryingly evolved. I'd drink it over the next five years. But it is not expensive.
Farr Vintners' current offer of 1997 red bordeaux, three container loads they have taken off the Bordeaux trade's hands, many of the wines at prices very considerably below the (ridiculously high) original en primeur prices. Ch Léoville Barton looks the best bet to me when I compare with my tasting notes even though at £200 a case it is only a bit less than its (relatively reasonable) opening price of £250. Brimming with confidence and black fruits, this is definitely one of the stars of this useful but not fantastic vintage and could give enormous pleasure now.
Farr will sell all over the world but remember they insist on minimum orders worth £500. (It's just not worth getting Stephen B and Lindsay H out of bed for less.)
