Recent news items have suggested that the EU wine reform is on the verge of collapse in the wake of very strong objections from the majority of member states – especially with regard to a proposed ban on chaptalisation (adding sugar to grape must to increase the final alcohol level of the wine) and the end of the planting rights system, which limits the total area in any one region that can be planted with vines, as well as changes to the grubbing up scheme. The intention is to reduce overall wine production in the EU but some argue that it is antithetical to market forces, which would be a better regulator.
Twenty-one of the 27 member states voted against the ban on chaptalisation, saying that this would put them at a competitive disadvantage compared with the New World.
In her speech to the European Parliament today, the Commissioner tried to sound both determined and willing to compromise. She started off on a conciliatory note but with a reservation:
‘The Parliament has made a valuable contribution to a debate which has at times been very emotionally charged. And in a number of areas, I'm ready to follow your suggestions, at least to some extent.
‘For example, with regard to a new grubbing-up scheme: I can see advantages in running this for three years rather than five, as you suggest.’
She refers to three major areas of concern – how much of the budget is devolved through the ‘national envelope’ (allowing a more flexible local response to local conditions), chaptalisation and planting rights.
On chaptalisation:
‘We're going to find a way through this. I have listened to the broad call for continuing to allow enrichment with sugar. But let's be clear. I am not inclined to accept the status quo, so any compromise would imply new conditions.’
On planting rights:
‘I'm listening to arguments about when the system should end. But we can't afford to kick the whole idea into the long grass. The wine sector needs more freedom to respond to demand as soon as possible. My suggestion of prolonging the system of planting rights until the end of 2013 was based on the idea of a two-stage approach to balancing the sector. First grubbing-up to bring down over-production. Then liberalisation to allow successful producers to expand. I have listened to comments from the sector but one thing is clear: a final date for the planting rights system is indispensable. What that exact date will be is going to be part of the final compromise.’
Towards the end of her speech, the Commissioner tried valiantly to stress the limits of compromise, though I'm not sure one 'iron fact' makes her an iron lady:
‘I have been listening to arguments from all sides, including the European Parliament, but one iron fact has not changed: our wine sector still needs reform if we want to keep it at the front of the pack.
‘We must seize our chance now and agree on a real reform. Carrying out reform will mean investing effort – but we'll get a good return. The cost of inaction is too high for us to accept. …
'A deal is within our grasp. But as I say, it must be the right deal. We live in the real world, and I have shown considerable flexibility over many of my original proposals. But I won't allow the proposals to be watered down so far that the end product loses all taste and value.'
Indeed.
Chaptalisers across northern Europe – especially in Germany - will breathe a sigh of relief but I don’t think Ms Fischer Boell gives up that easily. The ministers are supposed to reach a final political agreement on wine reform next week and will be meeting Monday to Wednesay. Michael Mann, Spokesman for Agriculture and Rural Development, warned: 'expect an all-night session'.
EU wine reform approaches showdown
Wednesday 12 December 2007
• 2 min read
Choose your plan
Member
$135
/year
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
- Access 289,005 wine reviews & 15,879 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
Ideal for collectors
- Access 289,005 wine reviews & 15,879 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
- Access 289,005 wine reviews & 15,879 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
- Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
- Access 289,005 wine reviews & 15,879 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
- Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
More Free for all
Free for all
Kim Chalmers of Chalmers Wine and Chalmers Nursery in Victoria is no stranger to JancisRobinson.com. She was an important influence...
Free for all
What to make of this exceptional vintage after London’s Burgundy Week? Small, undoubtedly. And not exactly perfectly formed. A version...
Free for all
The world is awash with unwanted wine. A version of this article is published by the Financial Times. Above, a...
Free for all
24 January 2026 All the tasting notes from London’s Burgundy Week have now been published, bringing the total number of...
More from JancisRobinson.com
Tasting articles
The fifth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles compiling reviews of the young burgundy 2024s tasted by Matthew in the...
Tasting articles
The fourth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles compiling reviews of the young burgundy 2024s tasted by Matthew in the...
Tasting articles
The third of our alphabetically organised tasting articles compiling reviews of the young burgundy 2024s tasted by Matthew in the...
Tasting articles
The second of our alphabetically organised tasting articles compiling reviews of the young burgundy 2024s tasted by Matthew in the...
Tasting articles
The first of our complete, finalised, alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2024s tasted by...
Nick on restaurants
A winning combination in North London beguiles Nick, who seems to have amused the trio behind it. Above, left to...
Wine news in 5
Also: the WHO calls for raised alcohol taxes; more tariff drama; Champagne sales decline, and protests continue at Moët Hennessy...
Tasting articles
Some promising representatives of the next generation of California wine brands. Above, w inemaker Ryan Pass of Pass Wines (photo...