Mosel 2020s, part 2 – VDP from P to Z

The nose opens with a faint aroma of pear and meadowsweet. On the palate the Weissburgunder Gutswein is sherbety-fresh with light notes of pear and apple, straightforward and not too dry. (MS)

A pleasant aromatic fragrance exhibits notes of peach and elderflower blossom. Freshness is ensured by a creamy sherbety expression, delicate nuances of grapefruit and pear are complemented by fine lemony acidity. One of the lightest trocken wines I have encountered; not too dry, Riesling to go. (MS)

The Filzen Kabinett appeals with a light fragrance combining floral nuances with aromas of fresh yellow fruit. On the palate it’s all about delicacy of flavours, hints of apple, pear and orange, feather-light and animated by a slightly sherbety character and gentle appley acidity. In keeping with its delicate constitution, residual sugar has been administered with a light touch. (MS)

A subtle composition of apple, gooseberry and a mere smidgeon of citrus fruit, titillates the sense of smell. On the palate there is very little of the sherbety character of its predecessors, replaced by a more viscous texture and riper fruit, pear and peach. Shows more flavour, but also less acidity. (MS)

Fine aromas of orchard blossom and meadow flowers are augmented by just a dash of herbal honey. On the palate it turns out one of those Spätlesen you could drink by the … well, very big glass. It’s really fresh and animating, lively with citrusy flavours, not demanding concentration but a rather swift refill. Acidity and residual sugar are well-appointed; present without being brash. (MS)

A clean and fresh nose of green and yellow fruit with a faint floral touch. Slightly sour grapefruit with pith on the palate. Dry, straightforward, light everyday drinking. (MS)

Cool citrusy fragrance with just a hint of green apple. Lively on the palate, with sherbety character, sweet lemon and grapefruit well balanced by refreshing acidity. A very pleasant summer quaffer. (MS)

Delicate composition of apple, peach and citrus aromas on the nose. The taste of sweet pear and zesty orange is accompanied by animating acidity. Very refreshing style of Kabinett with well-pitched residual sugar. (MS)

Peach, gooseberry and a faint tropical note constitute a very agreeable fragrance. It becomes much easier to pigeonhole the fruit on the palate, a dead ringer for juicy nectarine. Some may call it a little one-dimensional, but it’s not too sweet, refreshing and very easy to drink. (MS)

A summery fragrance of ripe yellow fruit is well complemented by a gentle floral aroma. Shows quite a bit more concentration of fruit than its Wehlener sibling Spätlese, generously juicy, apricot here, zesty orange there, with a nice touch of citrus peel and spice on the finish. (MS)

On the nose spontaneous fermentation and slate express themselves in notes of parsley, sage and a funky flinty notion. On the palate, appetisingly sour grapefruit makes the mouth water, augmented by just a lick of salt cube and a dry herbal finish. (MS)

An intricate fragrant composition unites aromas of yellow fruit, herbal nuances of chives and parsley and even a hint of wet pebble. On the palate, fruit and minerality are embedded in a rich texture. Definitely dry, but broad and generous with it, giving the Heldenstück a kind of burgundian feel. (MS)

Now this is what some tasters would call seriously funky, meaning that well-known combination of pungent green herbs and fumy minerality. Although the name ‘Goldstück’ hints at Piesporter Goldtröpfchen as the source, this is a new interpretation of an old classic. The traditional spicy character of the terroir can still be found, but instead of charming and racy you get a muscular expression of herbal and mineral substance. (MS)

Citrusy, spicy and smoky on the nose, not to forget the trademark herbal aroma. Lively and citrusy on the palate, refined by very subtle spicy and mineral nuances. Proof that Thomas Haag can do charming too. (MS)

For once the funky side of spontaneous fermentation is happy to play second fiddle to the more traditional Mosel Riesling. Aromas of citrus fruit and spice, even some floral charm. A refreshing fruity composition of apple and orange titillates the taste buds, a subtle sprinkling of nutmeg and a most delicate smidgeon of rock dust enhance the finish. Residual sugar and acidity are administered in the best possible taste. (MS)

A very delicate fragrance hints at the fruit of pear and orange, augmented by a delicate nuance of herb garden. In terms of taste, probably the most traditional of the three Kabinetts, the gentle fruity flavour of sweet pear and zesty orange is enhanced by the merest sprinkling of exotic spice. Feather-light. (MS)

A fine herbal aroma flatters the nose with subtle notions of mint and chervil. On second inhalation the fragrance is extended by hints of minerality and yellow fruit. The taste opens with a generous sweet and juicy expression of nectarine and grapefruit, embellished by a fine sprinkling of exotic spice and just a dash of brown sugar. Obviously sweeter than the Helden Kabinett, which, maybe just for now, masks the complexity a little bit? (MS)

Thomas Haag is one of the outstanding protagonists of showcasing the attractive aromas of spontaneous fermentation without any of the sulphur-like distractions. A fresh fragrance of herb garden after the rain with a few wet pebbles strewn in should not just appeal to gardeners. Starts off quite sweet on the palate, but follows-up with zesty orange, spicy piquancy and a delicate herbal finish. Citrusy acidity leads to an almost tactile finish. (MS)

Although the Goldtröpfchen Spätlese does not lack the customary herbal trademark of spontaneous fermentation, centre stage is taken by that distinctive composition of citrus fruit and exotic spice, so particular to the terroir of this site. Charming, delicious, animating. There are three things that stand out in my memory about 1968 and tasting my first Goldtröpfchen Spätlese was one of the two highlights. We won’t mention the riots. (MS)

A gentle fragrance exhibits notes of pear and meadow flowers. Simple and straightforward on the palate, fruity and quite sweet, well balanced by appley acidity. (MS)

On the nose there’s a nice mix of yellow fruit and orange and although the wine is dry on the palate, a rich texture and low acidity soften the trocken-style impact. Quite velvety, even minerality takes on a liquid expression. (MS)

Fresh green- and yellow-fruit aromas are complemented by the finest of pineapple nuances. Quite full bodied as feinherbs go, with sweet peach and citrus fruit on the palate, served on a viscous texture. Acidity keeps a low profile, a hint of minerality lifts the finish. (MS)

At the second sniff I get a scent of pineapple, while initial inhalation revealed more mineral associations. And I still overlooked (over-smelled?) something, as the palate adds exotic spice to the sensory expression. It’s a wine hard to pin down, pitching somewhere between trocken and feinherb, acidity taking a back seat to a truly rich and generous texture. Riesling as a lubricant, and it works well. (MS)

Kabinett is the classic Mosel wine and the Schloss Saarstein has the archetypal (if there is such a thing) Mosel Riesling nose with green- and yellow-fruit aromas. On the palate the local fruit takes on a sweet expression but is well balanced by a fresh citrusy acidity. Light and lively, pleasantly uncomplicated. (MS)

A tempting fragrance combines aromas of tropical fruit with a gentle notion of cream soda. Pineapple, orange and peach are the most identifiable fruit components, their generously sweet taste stimulated by a delicate sherbety expression, subtle acidity and just a dusting of exotic spice. Feather-light and easy drinking. (MS)

Very delicate floral fragrance with just a hint of citrus fruit. Creamy, just a tad sherbety to stimulate the taste buds, light and citrusy on the palate with a gentle sweet touch to make it a crowd-pleaser. (MS)

An animating fragrance of fresh rain on grass and pebbles pleases the olfactory perception. The estate trocken is creamy too, but without the sherbety notion. Quite green on the palate with apple and grassy nuances, lemony acidity and a slightly stone-dusty finish. The acidity won’t let you forget that this is Riesling, but there is just a hint of residual sugar to help it along. (MS)

Green fruit, a hint of citrus and a wet pebble mineral nuance give the nose that certain Ruwer feel (smell). Starts off creamy with quite a generous textural mouthfeel, but then takes you into drier spheres with crisp apple, grapefruit pith and lemony acidity. A tactile mineral finish exhibits the gravelly expression of slate. Quite austere, not a trocken for beginners. (MS)

A gentle fragrance with aromas of meadow flowers, lemon peel and green fruit. Starts off creamy and well rounded on the palate, but then gets a little more compact with crisp sweet apple, grapefruit pith and a fine salty nuance on the finish. A feinherb of the drier kind, with plenty of acidity. (MS)

The Bruderberg Kabinett pleases the nose with gentle aromas of green fruit, lemon icing and a faint floral notion. On the palate it is truly refreshing, animating the taste buds with crisp green fruit, sweet lemon and grapefruit, lively acidity and a well-contained measure of residual sugar. Kabinett with a grip. (MS)

Just a little sweeter than the Bruderberg, with plenty of zest, grapefruit and gooseberry flavours, sweet-lemony acidity, a subtle spicy nuance and a tactile, almost gritty mineral finish. A Kabinett with a firm handshake. (MS)

There is a distinct difference between the three Kabinetts, and the Abtsberg evokes the image of an abbot with wide girth, ie the fuller body. The same can be said for the flavour, where the taste of orange reflects slightly riper fruit, but is never lacking in zest, and with a subtle nuance of bitter lemon, if that mundane association may be allowed. Smidgeons of butterscotch and cinnamon may be far-fetched, but add to the overall complexity. (MS)

A subtle fruity fragrance not only features regional peach and pear, but also some more exotic nuances of orange and even pineapple. On the palate the Bruderberg reveals itself as the livelier kind of Spätlese with the zesty spritz of orange peel, but also quite a tropical leaning with elements of pineapple and passion fruit. Some Spätlesen may fizzle out after just flashing a bit of sweet temptation, but the Bruderberg Spätlese, like more or less all Maximin Grünhaus wines, keeps going with what seems a mixture of phenolic and mineral grip on the finish. (MS)

It’s a soft and gentle fragrance with delicate aromas of peach, pineapple and nuances of citrus fruit, with an ever so dainty note of butterscotch towards the tail-end of the nose. On the palate, quite viscous and creamy to begin with, but then getting a little more animated and zesty with notes of sweet grapefruit and orange. Finishes with a fine spicy composition of clove and cinnamon and acidity that doesn’t bite but tantalises the taste buds. (MS)

It’s finesse, stupid, Bill Clinton could have said when co-tasters might have bemoaned lack of exuberance, at least as far as the fragrance of the Abtsberg Spätlese is concerned. A fine citrus spray titillates the nostrils; a whiff of herbal honey adds temptation. On the palate there’s more mango and orange than peach and sweet apple, but it’s the honey that adds that sumptuous taste and mouthfeel. Quite luscious, although zest and spices do their best to rein-in any attempt at opulence. (MS)

Gentle green fruit on the nose with a hint of grass. Fresh crunchy apple and grapefruit on the palate with just a touch of sweetness, well balanced by lively acidity, finishing on a note of kernel. Light and refreshing. (MS)

Ripe apple and a little gooseberry on the nose. Starts off quite creamy with a delicate taste of sweet grapefruit and gooseberry, adorned by a subtle spicy accent on the finish. Light, and with its harmonious interaction of restrained residual sugar and fine acidity it’s a perfect introduction to feinherb. (MS)

Delicate aromas of green fruit, peach and meadowsweet titillate the nostrils. The palate impresses with a subtle composition of fruit flavours, from apple to sweet gooseberry and grapefruit. It’s as if global warming never happened, the Badstube Kabinett feinherb is a role model of tasteful moderation, whether it be acidity, residual sugar or body. The daintiest of salty nuances enhances the finish. (MS)

Although the fruit is still delicate on the nose, it seems slightly more exotic in its expression. Almost lurking in the background one can just detect a hint of cool minerality. On the palate a juicy beginning features the fruit of pear and orange, but as the flavour goes on, a stone-dusty mineral element introduces a tactile grip. A little spice rounds off an accomplished Kabinett performance. (MS)

What is classic Mosel? It can hardly get steeper and slatier than at the Doctor site and to many Mosel aficionados no wine represents the region better than a Kabinett. Erben Thanisch’s Kabinett ticks all the boxes with a great diversity of fruit on nose and palate, none of it exaggerated, but presented with moderation and finesse. It takes a little more however to stand out from the rest, and the Doctor Kabinett manages that task with fine spices and mineral aplomb. (MS)

Even at Auslese level, the nose of the Doctor is not trying to impress with exuberance but to enchant with fine aromas of fruit, encompassing a fair range from the regional to the exotic. On the palate, peach, nectarine and apricot meet orange and mango in a juicy and zesty expression with a sweetness that is all fruit and no syrup and an acidity which is happy to share honours for the best support act, with subtle nuances of minerality and spice. (MS)

Opens with an appley fragrance, supported by a delicate notion of elderflower. Lively sherbety expression on the palate, with delicate notes of apple and pear, slightly lemony acidity and a touch of nutmeg on the finish. Quaffing estate trocken. (MS)

Pears and peach on the nose, but also still a hint of post-fermentation pear drop. Shows a bit more substance and extract than the estate wine on the palate, just a tad sherbety, the fruit of apple and pear supported by notes of peel and a smidgeon of spice. (MS)

Delicate aromas of green apple and citrus fruit tease the olfactory perception. Light and lively on the palate, definitely a quaffing feinherb, but very appealing with its zesty expression of squeezed orange-peel and just a sprinkling of spice. (MS)

The aroma of pear drop may hold a superficial attraction, but also makes it a struggle for more interesting shy floral and spicy notes to get through. Very lively on the palate with quite a spritz, delicate nuances of orange and apple supported by the merest hint of nutmeg. The trap of too much residual sugar, which can so often be the downfall of feinherb, has been neatly side-stepped. (MS)

Quite faint on the nose, although the composition of floral, fruity and spicy titbits are worth struggling for. Another Wegeler wine with lots of zesty spritz, very light in flavour, with fine nuances of apple, orange and sweet spice. Literally a sweetie. (MS)

With the fragrance of the 2020 Doctor Spätlese, we enter the sphere of olfactory excitement. It’s not exuberance of aromas but very fine scents of a range of exotic fruit from citrus to passion fruit, even hints of cassis and peach. Assemble all the aforementioned on the palate, applaud the zest and enjoy the perfectly pitched acidity. With this in the cellar you don’t need any other doctor. (MS)

A delicate fragrance exhibits subtle notes of citrus fruit, peach and a hint of icing sugar. On the palate the Riesling trocken Gutswein is really dry, a little sherbety, very light, the fruit more crisp apple than peach, lemony acidity providing a cutting edge. (MS)

More vegetal than fruity on the nose with an unusual combination of mustard cress and melissa among some green herbal notes. The palate adds some sweet cinnamon to the gentle herbal expression, which is ably supported by refreshing acidity and tasteful helping of residual sugar. In terms of alcohol, it’s a quaffing wine, although in terms of quality, it’s a Riesling-lover’s quaffing wine. (MS)

A delightful fragrance combines green fruit, floral aromas and a stony mineral notion. Although there is no mention of trocken on the label, it appears quite dry, probably because on the palate it really lives up to its Schiefer provenance, with an almost gravelly minerality, which is well matched by grapefruit in its mouth-puckering version. Quite compact despite its modest alcohol. (MS)

Smells very fresh with green apple and a cool stony mineral nuance. The taste tingles with crisp apple, grapefruit and an almost searing lemony acidity. Alcohol and residual sugar have been well contained to emphasise the refreshing character of this feinherb estate wine. A subtle dash of slaty minerality adds value to the finish. (MS)

The old vines have been digging down into the mineral sphere as the distinctive cool slatey fragrance demands equal billing on the nose with some ripe aromas of yellow fruit. The palate bristles with grapefruit piquancy, invigorating acidity, a dry stone-dusty element, and a bitter-sweet notion resembling quinine. A tad of residual sugar softens the sting. (MS)

Green fruit shares the aromatic platform with floral and mineral nuances. Quite taut on the palate and drier than I remember it from other years, grapefruit with pith and apple with kernel, a butterfly with grip and a little mineral dust on its wings. (MS)

Fresh and cool fragrance with green fruit and a hint of citrus. Uncompromisingly dry, almost austerely so, attacks the palate with crisp green fruit including peel, sour grapefruit, lemony acidity and a rocky mineral finish. Only for those who can handle truly trocken. (MS)

The delicacy of the fragrance demands total olfactory dedication to discover the pleasure of local orchard fruit, but also the merest flicker of something slightly more exotic. Trocken means dry, emphasised by assertive acidity, buffered by a reasonably generous texture. Stone fruit and dusty minerality lead the way, but I cannot help suspecting a touch of wood-ageing to smooth the waves. A little something for the advanced trocken drinker. (MS)

If freshness had a colour it would be green, in this particular case aromas of green apple, green sappy grass and even a hint of green herbs. This animating green theme is continued on the palate and further refined by invigorating acidity, quite tactile, but expertly balanced by a tastefully administered cautious measure of residual sugar. Proof that Kabinett can have grip too, albeit administered with a sweet smile. (MS)

Fans of apple pie will be delighted by the nose of the Rausch Kabinett, as it delivers aromas of apple and lemon with sugar icing. On the palate things become a little more exotic with sweet grapefruit and bitter orange, well complemented by lemony acidity. A fine spice not unlike vanilla adorns an exhilarating finish. (MS)

The squeezed peel of citrus fruit titillates the olfactory receptacles, assisted in its exhilarating effect by a subtle notion of exotic spices. On the palate, the bitter-sweet expression of grapefruit and orange is carried by a creamy texture, and generous sweetness and tingling acidity tantalise the taste buds on a long finish. (MS)