Frost losses in New Zealand
Julia Harding MW tipped me off last week to a widespread frost in Central Otago. I followed up with Sophie Parker-Thomson MW at Blank Canvas winery, who wrote back saying that the region was well into spring growth when, on the evening of 3 November, temperatures in the area dipped to -2.5 °C [27.5 °F]. Because there was no inversion layer – meaning there’s a layer of warm air above the layer of cold air on the ground – frost fans weren’t effective in protecting vineyards. Sprinkler systems, which coat new growth in ice – thereby protecting the growth from temperatures below 0 °C/32 °F – were effective, but many producers don’t have access to that infrastructure. Those who don’t are currently looking at 20–90% yield losses depending on subregion. However, it is still early enough in the season that there’s a possibility that vines may compensate by developing larger berries or bunches throughout the growing season.
Other areas of the country also experienced low temperatures that weekend, with Gimblett Gravels in Hawke's Bay dropping as low as –1.5 °C/29.3 °F and a few isolated pockets in Wairarapa hitting sub-zero temperatures.
Parker-Thomson closed her email saying, ‘While this is going to reduce the likely quantity of wine produced in 2025, the quality should not be affected as producers are acting to ensure frost-impacted vineyards are managed appropriately to maintain quality.’
I’m wishing all the growers in New Zealand luck and good weather for the rest of the spring and summer.
New US wine market data
In 2023 total beverage alcohol sales in the US fell by 2.6% by volume. The latest data from the IWSR, an organisation that collects data, analytics and insights for the beverage alcohol industry, shows a further decline of -2.8% between just January and July 2024. All categories except Ready-to-Drinks (RTDs) saw declines, with wine seeing the largest decrease in sales by volume: -4%.
The Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America’s SipSource report shows there are very few pockets of growth – Prosecco has seen 2% growth and the $50+ price segment has grown 1%. While I can’t find the SipSource data from 2023, the Silicon Valley Bank report showed 2% growth in that price range in 2023 – double this year’s growth.
I am giving you these deeply depressing numbers because, over the last few months, I have heard people dismiss the contraction of wine sales as a phase and say ‘yes, but premium sales are doing fine’.
I don’t think this is a phase. Premium sales are softening and Gen Z and millennials are drinking less. The wine industry is going to have to adapt. But I do think there are some clear opportunities – two months ago WSET reported that they had 15% higher enrolment in their diploma programme year on year. In 2023, 50% of people enrolled at all levels were enthusiasts. In August, Grandview Research reported that demand for wine tourism among international tourists is projected to grow 13.3% from 2024 to 2030. So consumers may be drinking less but producers who cater to the current demand for education and tourism and who can host events, will, seemingly, be able to create alternate streams of income.
Major win on lower bottle weights
The multinational wine producer Viña Concha y Toro produces around 384 million bottles of wine annually. On 13 November it was announced that they had signed the Sustainable Wine Roundtable Bottle Weight Accord and, in agreement with the Accord, will reduce the average weight of the 750-ml still-wine bottles they sell to 420 g (1,170 g full) or below by the end of 2026.
This is excellent news! Right now, 30–68% of the total carbon footprint of wine comes from the production and distribution of glass bottles. It takes energy to mine sand, it takes huge amounts of energy to melt sand or to recycle glass (which means that even when a bottle is recycled the carbon footprint is giant), and the energy to transport something as heavy as glass is significant. While we need every producer on board with reducing glass-bottle weights, it is particularly impactful when a producer as large as Concha y Toro makes this commitment.
China joins the OIV
On 14 November the OIV, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, formally accepted China’s application for membership. Once this acceptance is ratified by Chinese authorities, the OIV will officially represent 51 countries and 85% of the world’s planted vineyard area.
This is important. The OIV represents a united front for internationally accepted standards for viticulture and vinification. China, which has the third-largest planted vineyard area in the world after Spain and France and is the eighth-largest consumer of wine, will now be involved in creating and upholding these standards.
Yiannis Boutaris, Greek wine icon, has died at age 82
On 9 November Greece lost a wine icon. Our managing editor, Tara Q Thomas, writes:
'When Yiannis and his brother Constantinos took over their family company Boutari in the 1970s he saw an opportunity to use the winery to support the many grape-growers of northern Greece. The wines they made put Naoussa on the world wine map and supported dozens of local farmers in the process.
‘Yiannis also ploughed profits back into the vineyards, researching clones, soils, exposures to better understand Xinomavro, as well as planting other varieties to see what might take (he pioneered the Xinomavro/Merlot blend).
‘One of those experimental vineyards became Kir-Yianni, after he split off from the family winery in 1996. Kir-Yianni remains one of the most forward-looking wineries in northern Greece, now under the guidance of his son Stellios.
‘Yiannis is also the guy who said in the 1980s, let’s check out Santorini, see if it’s worth saving the vineyards from the tourism trade. Boutari’s Santorini winery led the island’s winemaking revolution, training winemakers who would go on to open their own wineries such as Yiannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia Wines and Haridimos Hatzidakis.
‘But Yiannis did more for Greece than improve its wine scene. His pride in his region, with its complex political and ethnic history, played out in everything from the creation of Arcturos, a sanctuary for the local brown bear and wolf populations, to serious work in repairing the country’s fraught relations with the neighbouring Republic of North Macedonia and Turkey (a move that once got him beaten up and hospitalised). He was deeply adored by the locals, who voted him in as mayor of Thessaloniki for two consecutive terms in his 70s. There he fought against corruption, supported LGBTQ+ rights (he founded and led the city’s first pride parade!) and revived the city’s rich Jewish history (it had held the largest Jewish population in Greece until 1943). A slightly built, tattooed, earring-wearing chain smoker, he did things his own way, with what always seemed to me a wonderful combination of intensity and humour.'
I have a Xinomavro from Kir-Yianni that I will be drinking tonight to toast the life of Yiannis Boutaris.
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