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Nick on restaurants

Nick Lander – aka Mr Jancis Robinson – was the Financial Times restaurant critic from 1989 to 2022. Now, every Sunday, he writes about restaurants exclusively for us. To stay abreast of his reviews – which are free for everyone to read – sign up for our weekly newsletter

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Lilibet's raw fish bar
Nick on restaurants Nick's favourite meal of the week

What is it about Saturday lunch? A tale of one enjoyed at Mayfair’s latest opening. Very fancy! It has been my favourite meal of the week for over 40 years...

More Nick on restaurants

Nick on restaurants Halfway through the four-hour marathon that was the 16 th James Beard Foundation Awards on 08 may in the excessively...
Nick on restaurants My colleague Rowley Leigh’s eloquent eulogy to the morel mushroom a fortnight ago prompted me to make yet another call...
Nick on restaurants Surprisingly, one of the most exciting aspects of writing this column does not actually involve eating. Instead it happens whenever...
Nick on restaurants Sommeliers, or wine waiters, are the dark horses of the restaurant world. They can contribute just as much to the...
Nick on restaurants At 62 Ranjit Mathrani is seemingly far too well qualified to be a restaurateur. He holds degrees from Cambridge, Manchester...
Nick on restaurants Benoit, the bistro which has stood seemingly impervious to time and fashion on a pedestrianised street in Paris between the...
Nick on restaurants As we walked into Franco’s, the excellent-value Italian trattoria recently re-invigorated by the Hambro family who own the far more...
Nick on restaurants Fun is not a word that appears regularly enough in restaurant reviews although it is an integral part of what...
Nick on restaurants Maureen Mills eats out in restaurants more times in a week than anyone I have ever met. “It must be...
Nick on restaurants Mitchell Everard, The Ivy’s genial maitre d’, greeted my host with his trademark smile and warm handshake and added almost...
Nick on restaurants Alain Senderens, the renowned French chef who last year handed back his three Michelin stars, was waiting for me at...
Nick on restaurants In 1980 the seemingly innocuous but soon to prove highly enjoyable phrase ‘A selection of British and Irish farmhouse cheeses’...
Nick on restaurants From the vantage point of the maitre d’s desk all looked normal if hectic as we entered the restaurant. The...
Nick on restaurants Hotels have increasingly become recognisable by the restaurants they keep. Restaurants may be only one part of any hotel’s attractions...
Nick on restaurants It was an impressive gathering around the round table. There was a senior investment banker; a partner in a private...
Nick on restaurants On the verandah of the third floor of the China Club, the restaurant at the top of the old Bank...
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